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22 hour monster Link-up in Red Rocks


Submitted by vegastradguy on 2007-04-30

Rating: 12345   Go Login to rate this article.   Vote: 1 | Comments: 18 | Views: 3613

by John Wilder


The link-up is a dream- the three most famous routes in Red Rocks- and all of them in under 24 hours. The dream was realized for the first time on April 26-27, 2007 when Kelly Cordes headed up Levitation, onsighting every pitch, with Josh Thompson jugging the route behind him.

A scant two hours and forty minutes later, they were on top and soon on their way to the top of the Rainbow Wall. They rappelled and then headed back up, leading in blocks. Thompson led the first part, aiding through the .11d and .12a cruxes, but freeing the rest, then simul-climbing for a while, then Cordes took the lead through the upper dihedrals, even managing to onsight the .12a pitch and one-hang the .12b pitch above that.

After finishing the Rainbow Wall in four hours and thirty minutes, they headed back down Oak Creek and to the car for the journey to Black Velvet Canyon. They started up Epinephrine with twenty minutes of light left, and topped out just under five hours later, doing most of the route by headlamp.

“We did it in what we’d call ‘circus style,’ in that we used a lot of different styles of climbing to cover ground fast,” Thompson said. “We onsighted (well, Kelly did!), we led, followed, jumared, simul-climbed, and linked. We even had prepackaged chicken breasts stashed at the base of the Rainbow Wall. I’ve been working out the details of this for a few years, specifically linking between canyons. [Guidebook author] Joanne Urioste was a tremendous help. Her knowledge of those canyons is amazing!” [Quote courtesy climbing.com with permission from Josh Thompson]

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18 Comments CommentAdd a Comment

 uberguide
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 2007-04-30
freakin awesome. way to go yall. someday...someday...
 herbaltee
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 2007-04-30
I would be happy if I could do Levitation or Epinephrine by themselves.
 natec
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 2007-05-01
It's funny how locals can do this kind of thing and it goes unmentioned.
 vegastradguy
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 2007-05-01
why? if a local wants it mentioned, its easy enough to do.....
 jupiter
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 2007-05-01
This was done already in 20 hours by Renan Ozturk and Ivo Ninov, in 2004. Not sure if the styles were the same, or if the watches started and stopped at the same places.
 jupiter
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 2007-05-01
one note about the original link up. Cloud Tower was climbed instead of Rainbow Wall.
 natec
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 2007-05-01
Thats the thing, the locals who have already done things similar to this didn't feel the need to call up "Climbing" and report it. It was just another day in the mountains for them, and a good one at that.

For what it's worth, the guys I'm thinking of climbed Lev 29 and Rainbow Wall, ALL FREE in under 12 hrs. (I believe it was 10:42). I'm not dogging anyone here. I just don't see why some people feel the need to shout it from the rooftops.

vegastradguy, I'm particularly not doggin you. You do a great job with your efforts on this site and by all means seem like a great guy.
 vegastradguy
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 2007-05-01
well, the boys who did this want someone to do this all free, and are encouraging folks to come out and do their best. they think of this as an inspiration for others.

i'll also say that if this was me, i'd be shouting it from the rooftops- its a hell of an accomplishment- so what if they want to celebrate?
 natec
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 2007-05-01
Just a difference in opinion. That's all.
 natec
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 2007-05-02
Man I really came across as a blow hard.

Josh and Kelly, I'm sorry it sounds as though I was belittling your accomplishments. I'm not the most eloquent person when typing.

Josh and I have exchanged messages, and I hope to continue our dialog.

To all others who may think I'm an ass...

I apolgize.
 raymondjeffrey
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 2007-05-02
It's cool natec. Yea, tone is hard to decipher on email. But kudos to the two dudes who tackled those routes. Hey John, how was Eagle Dance?
 flamer
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 2007-05-02
Natec....no worries as I've said to you I'm far from upset. No apology even needed.
The main thing I want out of this is for more folks, locals and visitors alike, to realise the potential that red rock canyon has for link ups. There are some big fun days to be had out there!
josh
 flamer
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 2007-05-02
Hey I wanted to point out a super rad day had by 2 other climbers in Red rock recently....
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-red-rocks-link-collins

Good stuff boys!!!
 ammon
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 2007-05-05
Thanks for the link Josh, I just emailed Jeremy about the details of that ascent.

Natec, if you know any more details about this linkup I'd be very interested in hearing/posting it. Please email/message me if you have any. Thanks!

http://www.rocknclimb.com/zionspeed.html
 micahisaac
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 2007-05-07
I think i just licked off all my lip gloss. sexy flamer;)
 hasbeen
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 2007-05-08
This is a super cool link-up, whether or not it's a 'record' of some kind. I'm glad it's reported, be it spray or whatever, because I enjoy doing this sorta thing and love to see what others are up to. And, no matter what, it's a big day by anyone's definition.

I suggest anyone interested in what's been done in the canyons contact Dan McQuad. He's not hard to get a hold of. Last time I saw him was in the Chevron mini mart on Charleston. After a quick catch-up on what we'd been up to, talk turned to the present.

"We're going to run up Epinephrine," he said. It was, as I recall, about 4pm and I know he wasn't planning on bivying or even taking a headlamp.
 superbum
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 2007-05-09
link ups are a pain in the ass, hard, tiring, and I get ulcer pains just thinking about them...nevertheless, they serve as a giant inspiration to get fit...in the eastern sierra (I live in Bishop, CA) there are SO many linkups and traverses that require stamina and longsuffering and I view those as (yes, means unto themselves, but also) as training for places like Patagonia and PAkistan, etc. Besides hard downclimbing(trust me...it WILL be huge!), giant linkups (think el cap twice in a day!) are the future of the sport! Who's gonna link Cerro Torre, Strandhart and Egger?????
 shaggy67
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 2007-08-09
I was on Epinephrine when they were conditioning for the attempt and they blew past a few parties by simul-climbing. Good job on achieving the goal.

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