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Rock Climbing : News : Ascents : Matt Segal Establishes 5.14- trad route, Independece Pass, Colorado

Matt Segal Establishes 5.14- trad route, Independece Pass, Colorado


Submitted by AmyGoldhammer on 2008-07-14

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by The North Face


On July 9, 2008, Matt Segal made the first free ascent of Orangutan (5.14-). Originally an aid route, The Orangutan Overhang (A2), it is located at Independece Pass, Colorado, outside of Aspen.

“It turned out to be a test of power endurance,” said Segal. “I spent seven days working the 25-move climb.”

Segal spent the first few days cleaning the route and working on the very intricate sequence of movements, involving pausing at the crux to place cams. One of the most varied roof cracks Segal has ever climbed, Orangutan consist of slopers, underclings, fingerlocks, hand jams and even a fist jam. Being so steep, the precise placing of gear can be difficult.

“The route definitely felt like 5.14- compared to the other difficult traditional lines I have recently repeated,” said Segal. “Since it is a crack climb, it’s very hand and finger size dependent.”

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