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Trotter Repeats E11


Submitted by rjtrials on 2008-06-09 | Last Modified on 2008-06-10

Rating: 12345   Go Login to rate this article.   Votes: 3 | Comments: 2 | Views: 5614

by Ryan Johnson


After extending his UK stay for an extra week, Sonnie Trotter, 28, made the second ascent of Dave MacLeod's UK testpiece. During his stay, Trotter also established Direquiem and proposed 5.14a R for the line.

Sonnie describes Direquiem as "the true direct finish to Requiem". The line of Rhapsody takes the path of most resistance (the hardest moves) up the Requiem headwall and is shaped like an inverted question mark - - where Direquiem goes direct (almost in a straight line) from the top of the Requiem crack to the top of the cliff.

Sonnie was adamant about the quality of Requiem, in spite of it seeming to be an eliminate. "You see, Rhapsody may be an eliminate, but it is still Rhapsody. There is a tremendous amount of logic behind what Dave did and that deserves a pile of respect I think. He saw the line, and climbed it to the top. The only rule is don't bail left to the arete, (a cop out) stay on the face and the line is very much obvious. And yes, very hard.......Rhapsody is basically a 5.13c/d (8a+/8b) into a V10/V11 (Font7c+/8a) and a cheeky one at that. Not ground breaking terrain, by sport climbing standards....Rhapsody is a good route, actually no, it's a terrific route, it climbs so fucking well, it's actually fun to fall off of. "

To redpoint the line, it apparently took Sonnie "4 and a half HOT and sunny weeks, 14 enduring days, 24 fifty foot falls, 47 snickers bars, and 113 emails to Lydia."

Rockclimbing Article Image1_large
Sending Rhapsody
Hot Aches
Sending Rhapsody. Photo: Hot Aches.
Rockclimbing Article Image2_large
Cruxing on Rhapsody
Hot Aches
Cruxing on Rhapsody. Photo: Hot Aches.
Rockclimbing Article Image3_large
Taking the Whip
ukclimbing.com
Taking the whip. Photo: UKClimbing.

Sources: sonnietrotter.com
ukclimbing.com

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2 Comments CommentAdd a Comment

 rockclimbergabor
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 2008-06-19
Steve McClure also also repeated it soon after.. 4th try over two days.
 eckov14
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 2008-06-26
so sick. nice job Sonnie, where can we see more photos?

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