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Rock Climbing : News : Competitions and Results : Anna Stöhr and Dmitry Sharafutdinov are the adidas ROCKSTARS 2011

Anna Stöhr and Dmitry Sharafutdinov are the adidas ROCKSTARS 2011


Submitted by admin on 2011-08-01

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Sport meets Music - Orange but Green singer Oli congratulates adidas ROCKSTAR winner Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS)

This weekend the bouldering world elite gathered at the impressive Area 47 in Tirol’s Oetztal Valley for the new top-class adidas ROCKSTARS invitational contest, challenging each other in a novel athletic format on artificial rock. In a breathtaking super final the two current world champions Anna Stöhr (AUT) and Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS) were the first to ever claim the adidas ROCKSTAR title.

Alex Puccio (USA), currently ranked third in the world, and five-time overall world cup winner Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) from Innsbruck were the runner-ups. The two Russian athletes Anna Gallyamova and Alexey Rubtsov finished third.

In order to celebrate the heroes of the international bouldering community like real „RockStars“, the organisers transformed the climbing competition into an elaborately staged show with live music. German rock band Orange but Green provided the intoxicating musical setting for the outstanding athletic performances on artificial rock.

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The adidas ROCKSTARS 2011, Anna Stöhr (AUT) and Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS) next to third placed Anna Gallyamova (RUS) and Alexey Rubtsov

47 athletes from 14 countries were at the start to battle it out in a new competition format. Only the top six men and women were admitted to final. There they first had to climb on two boulders, one after another. Only top three athletes advanced to the next round where they were fighting for the super final on a third boulder.

1500 climbing fans from around the world who specifically came to watch the event got to see a world premiere as for the first time ever two competitors climbed an identical route at the same time on a “super boulder” specifically designed for the event without seeing each other. In order to “top” the problem the athletes had to stand with both feet on top of the boulder block and touch a buzzer.

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In the thrilling men's super final, world champion Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS) pulls ahead of five-time overall world cup winner Killian Fischhuber (AUT) and tops the super boulder first

Austria’s double world champion Anna Stöhr flashed the super boulder in barely ten seconds not giving her opponent Alex Puccio (USA) the slightest chance to build up any pressure. With tremendous power and mature technique the 23-year-old bouldering queen from Innsbruck mastered the final boulder problem of the evening in an incredible speed.

“I am so happy to have won, because Alex climbed a lot better than me before hitting the super boulder”, Anna Stöhr said afterwards. “However in the end I was the first to hit the buzzer and it felt great to win in front of such an amazing crowd that showed up here at Area 47.”

“adidas ROCKSTARS has been different from all the other comps that I’ve ever competed in, but it was awesome and I hope to be back next year”, raved runner-up Alex Puccio. “I was nervous from day one since my performance at the world championship was not the best, but now I’m just excited to be second and redeem myself.”

Anna Gallayamova (RUS), who missed the super final by just a few centimetres, was also pleased with her third place. “This is the best result for me this year, even if it’s not a world cup most of the best female climbers are here so I’m both surprised and of course very happy finishing third.”

After the quick decision in the women’s super final, the heat was on for the men. They obviously realised based on the girl’s result that the routes set up by the course setters where conquerable and a quick start could secure the title. Like the girls before them, Dimitry Sharafutdinov (RUS) and Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) set off on identical routes while not being able to see each other on the unique superboulder. Fischhuber made it past the crux in his first attempt while Dimitry Sharafutdinov lost his grip and fell. As Kilian Fischhuber was just an inch from top, the second flash victory on the super boulder seemed imminent. But a long day of exhausting climbing suddenly took its toll and the Austrian slipped while trying to work his way up the overhang. That meant “return to go” for both athletes and put Dmitry back in the game while the live band Orange but Green were smashing their hit 'Rockstar' and cheered on the two best bouldering athletes in world going for their next attempt.

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Anna Stöhr (AUT) on her way to the super final.

Both took their time to focus making sure they'd get it right this time and they wouldn’t miss an ulterior solution to the problem. As long as the opponent wasn’t on the wall, there was no need to rush. Finally, both set off again at the same time and Dmitry Sharafutdinov managed to find the flow he was missing before working his way up just slightly ahead of Fischhuber. The double world champion topped the impressive super boulder a few seconds faster than his Austrian competitor and secured the title as adidas ROCKSTAR 2011.

“I’m very happy to have won, because adidas ROCKSTARS has been the best competition I’ve ever done in my life so far”, said Dmitry Sharafutdinov after the award presentation.

Kilian Fischhuber was also impressed about the innovative competition format. “The super final format was totally new for us and I think it offered a great battle between me and Dmitry. I’m very happy with my performance despite of being second. The show was great and I had a lot of fun here at adidas ROCKSTARS. ”

Russian athlete Alexey Rubtsov hopes for a revenge next year. “Getting third is a great performance with such a strong field so I can’t say that I’m disappointed although I have the abilities to perform at a higher level - maybe next year?”

For more information please go to www.adidas-rockstars.com.

A replay of the Live Webcast with multi-cam stream is available on www.freecaster.tv.


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