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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by ClimbSoHigh (17)

Article: Climber Dies at Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks, NY
Tie your safty knots and always use some sort of redundancy, like an auto bloc.

My condolences to the friends, family, loved ones, and unfortunate spectators.

I think we all need to make sure we look out for other climbers too, regardless if you know them. I try to always teach safer techniques to random people i run into. If every climber watched out for others in crossing, I feel a lot of people will climb safer. Even if I am a hundred feet to the side of someone I always try to yell out to help others improve thier safty. (like tying safty knots of rap) The more people looking at others riggings/sytems the safer everyone would climb. We can't save everyone from injury/death in climbing but we can make a diffference, even if it ruffles some gym hero's ego or rubs an experienced climber the wrong way. (for some reason climbers who "know everything" don't appeciate some random person watching out for their safety regardless if they already know the advice I offer)

Lastly, I feel that everyone has a resposibilty to everyone to know propper rescue techniques and first-aid training, if you do not have this knoledge and climb alot, you might want to at least read up on it a bit or take a course or 2.

Once again my thought go out the climber and all who were associated with this tragic event. RIP

Article: Exum Guide Dies on the Grand Teton
DSSIMPSON, I would think it quite obious he fell, and died from the sudden stop after falling. I would also guess gravity caused his fall. Why he let go of the rock is what we will never know. (sorry for the sarcasm but I had to) It is sad to see anyone perish and my thoughts go out to his loved ones, family, and spectators, but he did kind of have it comming. The most basic protection, a rope, is all he needed to possibly still be alive today.

I personally think that people who solo do so for thier own reasons, but when they die it should not be a shock at all, but almost expected. There are two outcomes for solo'ers, they stop doing it (after being somewhat lucky), or eventually die because of risky choices. No matter how confident a climber (or crazy) is, holds break, birds atack, bees sting, snakes bite, rain falls, and for most of us, slip ups/break of concentration do happen.

I personaly gave up soloing because I finally realized the impact my hobbie was/potentially having on my friends, family, loved ones, and normally the overlooked spectators. There is more at stake when making the choice to solo than just one's own life. I hope solo'ers keep this in mind while they chase that amazing addrenaline fix. Most people are traumatized pretty bad when they see thier first splattered human, and this should be considered before soloing, or any of the other life threatening stuff I see people do almost daily at local crags.

All in all I have come to think that most free solo'ers are in fact a little selfish, my self included. Solo'ers care more about thier own chase of addrenaline, thrills, and solo first ascents than they care about the effect of thier actions on loved ones, and witnessing climbers in the area.

It makes me wonder what would have happened if he was using a 1 pound parachute for pro durring his free solo.

Article: Stick Clip Tricks for Sport Climbers
My favorite way to get that first draw clipped is to laso it, which is almost as much fun as watching others "attempt" to laso a first draw. It is by far the fastest way to get it clipped, unless you take a bunch of tries. If you wanted to practice make sure you use an old rope so you dont scrape the hell out of the sheath of your lead rope. The repetative missing and hitting rock can do some serious damage magnified by the fact most people tend to swing the rope harder and harder the more times they miss.

Of course this is all assuming its permadraws.

So get out there you cowboys (and cowgirls) and show those stick clippers how to rope a drawgie.

Article: Five Minutes (or more): Pete Takeda
I think I'm gonna wait for the movie :P

Article: Climbing and Murder
This is what I have taken away,

1. This is a false sroty.
2. This would not be murder, at least under US law.
3. This story is written as an anti-pot campain. Reefer KILLS peope!!!!
4. Climbing multipitch trad is dangerous, especially stoned, even more when someone is inexperienced.
5. The "murderer" went out of his way to stop and belayed him and the fall was arested so the belayer did everything right. Sounds like fatty must have untied himself after falling.

I love it when propaganda works its way into places still. The author claims a sober, fully grown man with adequate intellegence, decided to free solo with 3 stoned guys. A stoner stoned is about the same risk as a normal person really tired. I know plenty of people who are absent minded naturally, and they are way more dangerous than a drunk. This article reminds me of Reefer Madness. Just like that first time I smoked I thought it was funny to shoot my girlfriend. I was hoping for a story closer to The Eiger Sanction, what a let down. , Now remember kiddies, if you get stoned while climbing you will not only kill your friends, but you will also be a dirty sandbagger and be convicted of murder!!! Remeber society like alchoholics way more than potheads, because our countries founders drank about a half litre of wisky daily, and the lumber industry would have been out of business to hemp products.

That all being said I do not lead climb ever with pot heads, nor spacy/flakey indviduals. I would however prefer a drunk stoner over a ditzy, mechanically dumb, partner. I have read my petzl label and apparently climbing is inherantly dangerous...interesting.

Article: Craig Luebben dies in climbing accident
That sucks!


Article: 13 Year Old to Tackle Everest
I love contributing my useless insight but here we go!

1. Not sure if this a good thing. Yeah its good to support your kids goals, but something makes me feel like this is more for dad than the kid. I seriously doubt that some kid saw some peaks in school and decided, hey I want to train for years to break a record. Dad definately pushed him toward that decision, considering dad is also training and is probably summiting the mountains with him. I hope Jordan realizes that dad's obsession (err Jordans dream) will alienate him from his peers in a time when Jordan is probably searching for his nitch in life. Not to mention he is missing out on his childhood.

2. Is it ok to push your kid to this kind of goal? I would think not but I know I will be pushing my kids to rope up as soon as my kids can walk. Is it wrong... probably but I'll still push my kids to get into climbing. I just hope I push my kids so they can experience the things I found great in life and not live thorugh my kids life.

3. I personally am disgusted at how much money dad must be throwing at his (err i mean his kids) pursuit of a world record. I had to save for years to complete my used rack. I think I am more jelous than disgusted though.

4. And lastly and most importantly, what is the big fuckin deal with everest! Thousands of people have summited it and I can't see why anyone would want to suffer to join the masses on the field trips to the top. I mean there are outfitters that will take you to the top and all you have to carry is the clothes you are wearing, and a personal perter takes care of everything else. (Shelter, cooking, hauling, etc) I understood the buzz about everest when it was something for the very elite few, and the routes were unmarked and incredibly dangerous. Now someone with no mountaineering experience, decent physical abilities, and plenty of money can get to the summit within a year of hiring an expert.

Article: Black Diamond Merger
Further thought, Conventional marketing will not work on the climbing community. No matter how much money they throw at convincing us they are the same reputable compnay, the cliffs will chatter about the end of BD.

Toyota is a recent example, they used to be the name in quality manufacturing untill they got too big, and the need to keep the stock holders happy persuaded them to not recall known defective products for over a year. (I know this is an imperfect example as the Toyota scandal is blown out of proportion by US politics/lobyists/media to bolster the failing US auto industry. Didn't the US make the drivable bomb, the Chevy Pinto which stockholder interest also led to a delayed recall?) This is scary shit and I hope this does not start a trend for other manufacturers.

Article: Black Diamond Merger
RIP BD. You have lost my hard earned dollar. We all know that quality control is the first thing wall street bean counters look to cut, and I do not want to be the first victim to give BD a bad name. When other brandnames sell out, the consequence is that your stereo shorts out, worst case a fire. When BD sells out, people are going to die! (Maybee I should buy my last set of camalots now before the transaction goes through and expenses start getting cut). I hope CAMP or Metolius start producing double axle cams once the BD pattent runs out in a few years, they can have my hard earned dollar instead.

And cencalclimber... CCH is going on the auction block or going to be liquidated soon since the co-owners untimely death, not to mention the pattent on their cam head profile has expired. CCH will be a thing of the past by next year. Anyone intersted in starting a company that produces aliens, camelots, and stoppers in the next 5 years?

The only thing I hate more than the man, is greedy ass wallstreet. The day this goes through, I will never buy a BD piece of gear again. BD is on it's way to becoming too big for it's britches. Remember private companies are led by the president/owner while public companies are led by greedy investors who want an "acceptable" return on their investment NO MATTER WHAT!

Article: Black Diamond Merger Followup
"But Laakso dismissed any concerns that BD will lose its integrity."

Has anyone heard of a corperate exec say "this merger WILL diminish quality and integrity" even though 80% of the time it does? I love how they try to reasure everyone nothing will change. When panasonic was bought out by a Chinese company, they said nothing would change but it did. Execs will have one finger on the liquidate button while telling everyone how things are not going to change. I'll trust a murderer before I trust a ceo or corperate executive.

Article: 13 Year Old Completes Everest Climb and Looks Ahead
"but maybe in 15 years when he reads at a second grade level and cant form a coherent sentence they will regret allowing him to do this. "

really? I bet this kid will be a better reader than most Americans. I am not sure about others, but I do 95% of all my reading when traveling and on camping/climbing/outdoor trips. From what it sounds like, he does a lot of traveling and little TV watching. Maybee his folks should get him into competative spelling, since those kids have hobbies that make them great readers with no danger.

Article: 13 Year Old Completes Everest Climb and Looks Ahead
You have to love the internet. Full of people that know the correct advice to situation that they know little about. Since I am one, I think this kid's situation is not the greatest, but far better than the standard. Sure the kid is taking on risky adventures and possibly his parents are pushing it. But compared to most of the 13 year olds in this country this is not bad. 13 year olds are drinking, joining gangs, or are too fat to move so a kid climbing everest IMO is better and less dangerous that the fatty sitting in front of his xbox with a bag of cheetos. From the articles I have read on Jordan, his parents and himself are all fully aware of the dangers involved, and since he has quite a successful career so far, they must have tought him right. Somehow I feel that by age 17, this kid will have better risk management skills than the majority of people on, as well as having accomplished a lot too.

And to the school argument, plenty of kids are home shooled and do fine, and home school kids do better on the SAT's than public school tought. Some public schools are so underfunded and inept in the US, you would probably learn more from traveling around the world than sitting in a classroom. And thanks to no child left behind, 60% of the time kids his age spend in school is aimed at practicing for the tests that determine the fedral funding for the school. If you want your kid to know alot about taking standardized tests, keep them in public school. I'd pick the travel the world option since all my test taking skills I have aquired in my schooling career has helped me squat since starting starting my career.

The only thing this kid is really missing out on is a "typical" childhood. I would think a forum full of climbers could appreciate someone not wanting a typical lifestyle.

Article: DMM Recall on Dragon Camming Device in Size 6
I agree, I like how they detailed the timeline and kept the pro DMM comments to a min. 6 days from the initial report of a cracked boss to this is pretty quick for a recall to be issued. Also good to hear this was discovered without any decking.

Article: First Ascent Headed to American Television
Whats the deal with the other 2 episodes! I was so pumped to hear they were finally going to air this in the US. (not sure why the Travel channel picked it up, they are more of a food and wine channel IMO). Are they planning on showing the last 2 episodes of this series, since the travel channel is re running the hell out of the 4 that aired originally? Anyone know if they will show the remaining 2 episodes, or were they canned to keep it to 2 hours?

Also I want to give more un-asked for opinions on these since that is what is all about. :) The only 2 episodes that really gripped me was the Micha, Jonny, and Wade episode and the Hannold Freesolo. The Dean Potter and Sharma ones felt like I was re-watching the sharp end and progression (right movies?). It might be my bad memory, but it looked like they were just re airing parts of the movies with no new footage or story. Maybe the half dome free solo and homage to J,M,W episodes were from already released movies as well that I never saw, but the Jumbo Love and Freebase footage felt like they were just clips from older movies.

Lastly, my high respect for Jonny, Micha, and Wade was brought to a whole new level when I learned that they had traveled all that way to China, assesed the proposed climb, and determined it unsafe to climb and was getting ready to leave when the mountain took them. It takes a lot of balls to climb those remote big walls, and even more to decide to leave after all that planning, money, and hard work that they already invested. It's ironic the mountain still did not allow them to leave... RIP.

Article: 2.8 Kids with a White Picket fence and the Company Car
I liked the article, and I agree with some of your views, especially about the people who are addicted to work, and then having it take over your life. But this is common to what ever people do. As I get older and am preparing for my own family, I notice that I am starting to fall into routines which I am kinda starting to like, which as a student seemed like the worst thing on earth. I like your desire to not fall into the day in day out routines that most working class people fall into, weather it is the same family vacations, or constant work ethic. But remember to ask yourself from time to time, why is climbing so much better? I know people that I could argue wasted their lives by making climbing the only thing that matters to them. Sure they have a great deal of FA's, but outside climbing, they did nothing with their lives. If you don't watch out, you might be telling your grandchildren when they ask about the great stuff you did in life, you might have to reply "I climbed rocks and slept in a van for 30 years..." or " I worked doing (blank) for 30 years and went climbing every second I could..." Aside from the adrenaline, how is that much different from "I worked at a bank for 30 years..went to the beach a few times...thats it?"

Sometimes I feel that most climbers have this sense that what they are doing is so great and profound. That we are somehow better than the business men, the athletes, the parents... more or less any non climber. But when you boil it down, we are just a bunch of people addicted to finding harder-than-neccessary ways up a piece of rock.

Article: 2.8 Kids with a White Picket fence and the Company Car
While people are getting sidetracked on the economy, lets not forget that it was the Bush administration that crashed the economy, not Obama's. It's like moving into a burning house and then being blammed when it burns down. Gov't policies takes al least 3-5 years to run their course and show the effects they had on the economy/GDP/standard of living, I learned that one in Econ 110 a long time ago, but we are a culture of impress me now and everything has a 24 hour attention span. If things are bad, we as a culture only look to who is currently in the driver seat and give them the ticket, regardless of who caused the mess. In reality it is the American People that contributed mostly to the crash. Our sense of entitlement, our sense that we should only pay for what we want or need, and our hipocracy of wanting public services without having to pay for it.

I can go on a rant about the economy and who is to blame, but to sumarize it quick, our major issue is that rich people like to stay rich and the top 1% are the only votes that really matter. If you don't have a lobbiest, you don't get to vote for anything which is why the top 1% has been protected regardless of which "party" is in office. (they just lobby to both parties, ahh the convenience of only needing to bribe 2 groups) Obama is clearly not a golden child but is actually (or doing a good job pretending) trying to do something about it. Even the bail out goes on Bush IMO, as it wouldn't have been needed if Bush did not fill the SEC with ex bankers and loosen restrictions on the packaging of securities. Yes there were plenty of issues with the bailout, but that was from hundreds of congress men getting their dicks wet on a bill that needed to be passed to prevent a world economic collapse.

Our founding fathers would prolly off themselves if they saw what a circus common law and the political system have developed into over the last 5 decades.

(edited to fix 50 decades to 5 decades)

Article: Rock Climbing Injury Medical Survey
Interesting... I hope this is a well organized effort at this. And I am supprised there is not medical data on this as I have heard of doctors (mostly out west) that specialize in rock climbing related injuries, which makes me wonder how a dr could specialize in something with no medical data to look to.

Just thinking out loud, time to take the test :)