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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by TurboGroveller (2)


Article: Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous
whoops, didn't do the quote right; gotta figure that out. Anyway you guys get the idea...

Article: Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous
[quote Trad forces you to predict the route, climb with deliberation, plan gear placements (the where and quality of) and truly assess your consistent climbing ability. I am all for sport climbing, but I think that more climbers would reach this mental preparedness by slowing down their chasing the grade mentality and putting themselves on trad walls at lower grades. /quote]

Amen sbmerkei! On a personal note I recently began climbing trad,before being a sport-only climber, and spent a little over a month climbing nothing but trad routes in the 5.7 - 5.10a range. Before that month of trad my hardest onsite had been 10b and my hardest redpoint 11a. After a month of climbing significantly easier routes trad I went out for an all-sport weekend and in two days onsighted two 10d's, redpointed an 11a with a tenuous crux that had always shut me down before, and redpointed an 11b on my first lead attempt after one toprope ascent. I thought I would climb poorly because I hadn't been working my sport muscles as hard for that month of trad, but the mental focus that it engendered made a huge difference in my level of confidence and ability to adapt to the climb! I was always stoked on trad but never realized the difference that it could make to the rest of my climbing.