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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by angry (11)


Article: DIY Pinky Rests for Non-Leashless Tools
I don't think that you're going to like it. The good leashless mods go below the handle, so you don't lose any shaft length.

Then you said it's only for alpine, I get that but wouldn't a leashless tool eff up the way it plunges. The only time I've ever climbed WITH leashes was in the mountains.

Article: Ice Climbing 101
I used leashes on my first day ever and on a trip to the mountains where a pinky guard would mess up plunging. The rest has been leashless and I'm very happy with it.

Article: Evolv Stryker Editorial Review
I got my Strykers in November, right when they first came out. Due to these shoes, I pretty much just leave them on up to around 5.11a. I just can't justify taking them off and putting climbing shoes on unless the route is really hard.

Simply put, these approach shoes climb rock better than half the rock shoes on the market. They are super comfy to walk in too.

Article: Metolius Master Cam Editiorial Review
This review felt extremely biased. I learned nothing.

Article: 54 year old sends Pink Flamingo (5.13)
I don't want to take away from this send, it's impressive in a way.

Still, climbing a route that you can actually touch a petroglyph from really is unacceptable. Shame really, as I'd like to climb the route.

I can't think of another established 5.13 out there that has a petroglyph, please choose one of those instead next time.

Article: Honnold Free Solos Half Dome
Paul, while the Zig Zags may be the true crux, it doesn't matter. He soloed the Higbee Hedral and the fucked up 5.12 (11+) slab above the Zig Zags.

It definitely easier in terms of a move for move comparison to Moonlight but in whole, it's a hell of a lot harder (I've failed to free both, I know both routes).

Does anyone else think he just might be building for a Nose solo in a few more years or less?

I hope he lives, he's truly inspirational.

Article: Honnold Free Solos Half Dome
Freerider would be the logical next tick. The Nose then a free 3 hour free solo of the Trango Tower could be looming though.

Article: Sterling Ion Editorial Review
Climbers over 250lbs are limited to 20ft whips otherwise the rope breaks.

Article: The Mental Toughness Error
Why a picture of Wunches Dihedral in Colorado and a story of Zoo View in North Carolina?


Article: Evolv Optimus Prime and Pontas
I agree with caught. Shoes are extremely important. Or let me amend that a little, about 12b, shoes are extremely important. Don't apologize, it's just a truth.

Also, a little criticism. In the ferver to put out a new article, I believe you jumped the gun. I don't think you've climbed close to enough in either of these to say what they're capable of.

I personally climb in Pontas Lace for edging and Optimus (not the prime) for general sport so I can't fill in the blanks.

Article: The Mental Toughness Error
rtwilli, just for clarification, that "whatever dihedral" is probably the most spectactular 3 pitch route in the world. It's not exactly like he grabbed a crap photo.