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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by bandycoot (8)

Article: When Hope is Not Enough - Indian Creek at Risk
5 out of 5 stars I love IC. Keep it open, even if that means some development. Thanks to those working constantly to keep the area open and accessible. It's not an easy job and typically a thankless one. I wish it could remain primitive, but realistically there are just too many people going out there. If it has to be developed, keep it to a bare minimum please!


Article: Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut Editorial Review
Metolius used to have this retarded rubber coating on the loop where you clipped into the nut. That's gone now. How much of the weight savings come from that? How does the weight compare to BD? I'll have to figure that one out... Curve nuts set great! They just used to weigh a TON so I stopped carrying them...

Article: Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut Editorial Review
Flint, it is essentially impossible for a carabiner to weight only one strand of the nut in typical use. The tension across the whole wire is theoretically constant, so no matter what you do there will be close to equal weight on the two strands. It's just like an anchor. Clip 5' of rope into to bolts. It doesn't matter where the bolts are located relative to each other. If you clip into the rope and hang both bolts are weighted. If you need clarification on this, PM me. I don't know if I described it properly....

Article: The Huber Brothers Conquer El Cap
I'm confused... was this article about the Huber Speed record or Suunto? :)

Article: Taking A Stand
1 out of 5 stars Interesting article. I would have liked it a lot more if the finish wasn't assuming that I (and everyone else who reads it) didn't have ideals/ethics/etc. that we fight for and that just because Mike does he's right. As it is, I stopped reading near the end. Could have been worded significantly better.

Article: Trango Chockstone Editorial Review
When I grab a stopper and try to toss it in and it doesn't fit, it's trivial to recognize which is the larger and which is the smaller off-color, next sized stopper. Where the coloring helps, is when I want a stopper that is 1 size off and I accidentally grab one 2 sizes off in the same direction. The colors prevent that. It doesn't make a big difference in the grand scheme of things though. It's just a different way of doing things that I find marginally beneficial. I don't find randomly colored stoppers beneficial at all...

Article: Trango Chockstone Editorial Review
Update: I'm still using these things regularly. I found the missing Chockstone on a friend's rack, and they're going strong. My largest complaint about them was that you couldn't buy them individually, but it appears that even if retailers aren't selling them individually Trango is off their website for $8.95 now. Go Trango!