Skip to Content

Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by camhead (17)

Article: When Hope is Not Enough - Indian Creek at Risk
I totally agree with you on your criticism of Green, rockprodigy...

I've been really struggling the past year or so with my contradictory and often selfish thoughts concerning the Creek. Nonetheless, I'm going to try to post a few of them here.

It is quite simple, really. The problems at Indian Creek are the same problems that the entire Canyon Country faces and has faced for the last few years.- Too many people.

As far as personal relationships with the place go, I am not an old-school Creek climber by any means. I only started climbing there about seven years ago; the majority of my visits were in the off-seasons; either the dead of winter, or early summer. Crowds were not at these times of the year.

However, after becoming a local this past year, and frequenting the Creek more and more, I began to notice something different. Bridger Jack campsite is a "scene," akin to Miguel's, Camp 4, or Potrero Chico. While I love the communal nature of large numbers of climbers in the aforementioned places, it hurts to see them coming to and trashing this landscape that I love so much.

Most desert rats with whom I have discussed this agree that the draw of Indian Creek is not just the most perfect splitters in the world. It is the entire desert experience: solitude, a sense of the unknown and foreboding, and above all, the sheer, unquantifiable beauty of the Canyon Country. My personal love for this area stretches well before, and will extend well beyond my climbing career. It is just incredible that some of the best climbing is in the most beautiful landscape in the world. Indian Creek's lines would simply not be the same if the splitters were somehow transported to the Ozarks, New England, the midwest, or God forbid the Front Range. It is PLACE that defines Indian Creek.

But I'm not sure how many of the crowds at Bridger Jack campground even consider this. It is just another "scene, nothing more.

The increased publicity, and by this I am talking about the new guidebook and the film "Return2Sender" are the guilty parties. It makes me sick to read Timmy O'Neil's essay in the guidebook, which simultaneously touts the "sacred" and "spiritual" nature of the place, while throwing a fucking rave-party at the campground. It makes me sick to see travelling numbers chasers toprope and french free lines into submission while complaining of how "sandy they are." It makes me sick to see "professional" climbers who wax on about how special this place is to them scarring a line with six-inch tick marks. I'm sick of seeing The Spot climbing gym transported to the delicate and misunderstood landscape.

This is only a rant. I'm not offering any solutions, and I know that this rant is a little selfish. Bottom line is that what is going on at the Creek right now is tragic. Nothing more.

It is a catch 22. The allure of this country is solitude in one of the most beautiful landscapes on earth. With increased publicization, more people come out here seeking solitude, while at the same time kelling the solitude. "Herd mentalities" compound this, and the more people come to the Creek, the fewer of them that actually appreciate the solitudarian values. Sad.

Article: 54 year old sends Pink Flamingo (5.13)
yeah, I was just going to mention the petroglyph thing. please stay of off pink flamingo. oh, and nice send.

Article: Honnold Free Solos Half Dome
I've not been on this route, although I've heard plenty of what a sandbag it is (some even say tougher moves than Freerider).

I do think that the Alpinist article mentioned that Honnold bypassed the Zigzags with an 11c variation. Are the Zigzags the crux?

Article: The Five Ten Project
Cultureshock, different climbing shoe companies size differently, beyond just equivalent numbers; I guarantee that, for my preferences and foot size, I take 9 in Five Ten's Galileo and Projects, and 40 in La Sportiva's Katanas.

Article: The Five Ten Project
One addition: credit goes to Lena_chita for the photographs.

Article: The Five Ten Project
Thanks for the info, Curt. I had not yet had the chance to try the Projects on anything as rough or sharp as Oak Flat, so that's good to know. I was half-wondering if volcanic rock like that would simply puncture the thin soles. Either way, since I wrote this article (about two months ago, actually) I've continued to use the Projects indoor about 2-3 times a week, with pretty regular outdoor weakend use as well, and they are still going strong.

I'd be interested to hear from others on how they are holding up durability-wise, however.

Article: The Five Ten Project
just a brief update: I have experienced the first sign of wear and tear on the Projects: a small pinhole puncture in the rand. I am not sure how this happened; I had been climbing some routes that had pretty sharp protrusions. Anyway, I'm not sure if or how I will get them resoled with rand fixing, but will post up when I do.

So, right now it looks like I went 4-5 months of climbing about three times a week before they had a problem.

Article: The Five Ten Project
Just another update here. It's been about 9 months that I've had the Projects, climbing three times a week in them, as well as at least two weekend a month outside. The pinhole in the rand has enlarged to about a 1/3" split. They are still climbing pretty well, but definitely are on the way out.

I am satisfied with the lasting durability, however.

Article: 2.8 Kids with a White Picket fence and the Company Car
nitpicking, but the Wichitas are not a National Forest. National Wildlife Refuge, actually.

Article: The World's Highest Climbing Wall
Really, can we get a spell check with the title on the front page? Please? Not really helping the whole " is a slum-ridden wasteland of a website" thing here.

Article: Top Poster also Top Climber!
5 out of 5 stars Woo! I know him! Gongratulations!

Article: Outdoors Show 2012 - A Success
Not to mention that this gets released, but no mention of the OR Show in SLC, which just wrapped up as well. RC! Get some decent writers!

Article: 2012 Photo Contest - Results
I'm confused; what was the criteria for judging and picking the winner? I'm asking because I thought this contest was based on votes by users, and it looks like the winning photo only got two votes.

Article: Geology for Climbers, Part II: In a Sedimental Mood
Sorry, rurprider, I've got to respectfully disagree there. I've climbed at the Gunks quite a bit, and once you get the style dialed, it is not unusually sandbagged. Yes, there are some stiffies there (huh huh), like Arrow or Co-ex, but I don't consider Shockleys to be stiff for the grade. Routes at the Gunks feel about on par with those at J-tree, Smith, City of Rocks, or other "old school" crags, though maybe a bit stiffer than at some newer developed crags like Maple or Muir Valley, rrg.

Article: The Most Difficult Big Wall Free Climbs in the World
Moeman, thanks for the amendments; Beat's routes definitely deserve mention, as well as Ratikon in general.

Article: Daniel Woods Climbs Bishop's Hardest
Thanks, Juststrange, I've changed the downgrade info on Lucid Dreaming.