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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by caughtinside (22)


Article: Black Diamond C3 Editorial Review
2 out of 5 stars Thanks for the review VTG. I'd just add that my experience was nearly the opposite of yours. I bought the largest three, intending to complement my aliens. What I found was that the c3s were inferior in every way, except for head width, which I don't feel is a make or break issue.

the plastic sheath was especially annoying. Sure, you can bend c3s is half, but their torsional flexibility is nil, and if you pull on them this way, your placement will move! this is especially vexing, because they're designed for thin cracks, and the one direction that they should be flexible (for tugs from the rope, kicking with your feet, etc) they're not! The result of this is that you absolutely HAVE to sling them long, or risk shifting and compromising a placement.

Because of this, and the stiff trigger pull, I nearly fixed the red c3 4 times in the 10 days I climbed on them. Some of this I will accept as operator error, but this never happens with my aliens. It may be due to the red c3 being slightly larger than the green alien, and me just not adapting immediately to the size difference, and overcamming.

I also hated the ultra stiff trigger pull on the two largest c3s. the small ones are a little looser and felt fine. Plus, this cam is just a U-stem cam in disguise, so I'd mention that to people who may harbor a prejudice about that kind of cam design.

And to state the obvious, the retail price of these cams is absurd.

Finally, I just want to say that I bought these cams with my own money, and was excited to add them to my rack, as a second set of small cams to supplement my aliens. I had every expectation of loving them, and keeping them. Maybe it's my alien prejudice, but the aliens are just so much better, I was extremely disappointed in the C3s, to the point where I sold them after about 10 days climbing on them, and went back to using a double set of aliens.

I'd just add that if you have C3s and love them, good for you, that's awesome! Please don't take my comments personally, and feel free to make a dimpled alien joke at my expense. These just weren't the cams for me.

Article: DMM to begin production of Alloy Offsets!!!!!
great! I hope they extend the alloy range down a size or two at some point as well.

Article: 46 year old Queenslander sends 5.14a/b
that is awesome, thanks for the update phil. Looking forward to seeing some photos!

Article: Start Here Part 2: The Essentials of Gear
I browsed this over, a nice reference for beginners. A couple things though, helmets definitely do NOT all fit the same, and most gyms IME teach basic belaying for free.

Article: Arc'teryx WST Harness Editorial Review
Thanks. I've been quite curious about these harnesses, and look forward to trying one on when I see them in stores.

Article: Arc'teryx WST Harness Editorial Review
Thanks for the good write up. A couple questions: are there only two gear loops on all of these models? Also, it seems like the primary difference between this and a normal harness is that it is thinner and lighter. Is this correct? It looks like it fits the same as a normal harness.

Article: Metolius Master Cam Editiorial Review
Nice review. From what I can tell, they seem like new... cams.

Article: Talus Sponsors Ascent on the Legendary Himalayan Peak K2
This is a press release. An advertisement drenched in trademarks. Since nothing has actually been climbed, I wouldnt' call this terribly newsworthy.

Article: Evolv Optimus Prime and Pontas
Evolv makes a great shoe, but the sizing doesn't fit my foot. I seem to be in between sizes. If you're like me, and sportivas fit you, evolvs might not. Also, I'd take issue with the idea that the shoes don't matter. Shoes are the only piece of gear that actually directly affects your performance.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer '09, Day 2 & 3
In the sterling section you mentioned the Hollow Block... what is it?

Article: Trango Chockstone Editorial Review
they look nearly identical to stoppers. Looks like the same price too. Trango will probably have a harder time selling these to retailers than to climbers.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2010 Wrap-up
sharma's weed rope is classic.

Article: A Few Words About Climbing Ropes
he has a point.

Article: A Few Words About Climbing Ropes
Out of all the ropes I listed, I'd say the maxim G60 is the only one I wouldn't get again. The other Maxims were ok but not great.

Yes, it seems to be true that you can find screaming deals if you are patient, where they get you are either the bi pattern, or the 70m. The same rope as a 60 or 70 can have like a 40 or 50 dollar price difference, go figure.

I was thinking about it some more, and I remember when I got that sterling velocity, I didn't like it. It was pretty stiff, and the sheath slipped on both ends. I trimmed the ends and it softened up just a tad and ended up my all around favorite though.

Article: A Few Words About Climbing Ropes
But to answer Mr. Bats question... you actually need two ropes. If you are a Texas climber, you're probably climbing the local Austin limestone and E-Rock. A 70m is way overkill for these short areas. I'm guessing you want the 70 for Potrero raps. I'd get a cheap 50 and a cheap 70.

Article: A Few Words About Climbing Ropes
Actually, as an interesting anecdote, a friend of a friend has some kind of relationship with Sterling. I guess they tested a ton of old ropes, and found that on average, purple ropes are 1-2% stronger than any other color ropes.

Article: A Few Words About Climbing Ropes
Hi Johnny,
I haven't owned a New England branded rope, but I have owned 3 Maxims, which are manufactured by New England. All three have been inexpensive and lasted for several seasons. The G60 I owned is very heavy, but other than that they are decent ropes.

Article: A Few Words About Climbing Ropes
Hello thegeneral. No, you haven't got it straight. I won't and have never paid $175 for a pair of italian rock shoes.

You can call me stupid all you like, but I'd say the onus is on rope manufacturers... like the one you work for. These manufacturers make good products, but have generally failed to inform the rope buying public of why one rope is better than another.

If I can't see the value in a more expensive rope, why would I pay more? I go with the general rule of thumb that Ropes Don't Break w/o some sort of freakish factor like chemicals or a very sharp edge.

I would suggest to you, or anyone interested in providing a service to everyday climbers like myself, to produce an informative and impartial article on ropes that explains the difference between ropes, and how to find one that has a springy catch or above normal longevity.

Article: A Few Words About Climbing Ropes
Hello Mr. Bats,
Having done a few full 70m pitches I have come to the conclusion that it is just too long a pitch for my taste. It is either hard climbing which becomes exhausting, you might need to take extra gear which adds weight to adequately protect the pitch. If it is easy enough to simulclimb, a 70 is too long.

Those other crags you mention might be great places for a 70 though.

Article: Huasteca Potosina Limestone
5 out of 5 stars Great article Manny! Thanks for posting it. Mexico sure seems like it has a wealth of amazing limestone beyond the Potrero.

Article: Outdoors Show 2012 - A Success
1 out of 5 stars This press release is terrible. Lots of words to say 'we had a good show' with no real content.

Article: Wide Eyes, High Times and Hard Times; a Story of Climbing with Mark Grundon : Part 1
Wow, best to Mark. I barely met him, but he makes a distinct impression as a ridiculously pumped climber.