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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by chouca (7)


Article: Urban Climber buys Climbing Magazine
I'm a crusty trad climber, but I dig UC. Not big on the hip hop/ urban grafiti aethstetic, but is pretty slick, with cool shots and does not try to further lionize the hippie era dirtbag climber living out of his Volksvan as the ideal. The chicks in the pics DEFINITELY do not look like the leathery bulldaggers in bandannas I've seen in Climbing mag since the 70's, either.

I welcome the new vanguard.

Article: UPDATED - Reardon Feared Dead
I am hoping for a miraculous survival.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 3
That freezable water bladder looks like the ticket for Summer! Climbers have been filing the smallest Tricams down for years, so bravo for finally manufacturing a couple. And yes, it's been used more more like really strong RP than a stopper.

Article: Honnold Free Solos Half Dome
This is mind blowing. Parties of talented climbers have to pull gear on their first few free attempts just to get up the thing. There are many awkward, polished, and insecure moves on that climb, with so many places go off-route. I agree that this is truly an evolution for the sport.

Anybody that has been on the route understands that the grade doesn't begin to tell the story about this stretch of granite. Even Potter brought a rope on his 3/4 free solo and aided sections. Higbee and Erickson gotta be freaked out by this.

Article: 2 climbers die at the Red River Gorge
My condolences to the families. Most of us with many climbs under our belt under our belt are cringing because have come to belay stations with old webbing and thought twice about using it. My first guess is they were rapping down on a single anchor, but the detailed report should give the details.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer '09, Day 1
The Katana was the velcro Muirra, so why did Sportiva bother with laced Katana?

Article: Jumping Freight Trains to go Bouldering
There is little romance in riding the rails other than being able to say I did it and realize your level of resourcefulness. I did it three times after staying behind on extended climbing trips after my partners left and the money was almost gone. It is a rough, loud, dusty, vibratory and harsh way to travel. The definition of sleeping with one eye open. The bulls I encountered were nothing compared to my fellow travelers.

There is a hardcore communism practiced within the "traveler" culture that includes sharing everything. If you get mixed up with a group that strictly enforces this ethos, hold out on them at your own peril. They'll stomp someone for the heck of it if they think a rider is holding out. And that sharing extends to the female companions you may be stupidly traveling with.