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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by darkside (12)

Article: Metolius Offset TCU Editorial Review
One factor to mitigate concerns regarding lobe contact on the edges is that aluminum lobes will deform slightly given a large force such as a fall may produce. Also the rock may become crushed, either of which will result in slightly more rock/cam contact and corresponding increase in holding power. How much? - I've no idea and it's still possible that it could lead to the cam ripping out if the rock was soft enough or the cam at it's outer camming range. Hmmm... comforting thought to start with but then again....... !

Article: Anarchist Editorial Review
dcooke - perhaps you'd care to re-read my comments regarding the handle? I noted that anyone wanting to plunge them would find the Rebel a more appropriate choice, however this was not a review of the Rebel. My comments were meant as an evaluation of the Anarchist in a variety of situations and while plunging and piolet are hardly relevant uses in single pitch cragging, some more rounded climbers may wish to take these tools into more alpine environments. Just because you may have never encountered lower angled or snow sections on longer routes, doesn't mean other climbers haven't. As such, I put it to you that the comments were not only - not "dumb", but moreover, relevant. If you had a better appreciation of the use of the piolet technique in the alpine, then you would understand my evaluation. In short, although the Rebel may be more appropriate for alpine, having the spikes extend along the base would make the Anarchist even more versatile than it is.

As far as leashes are concerned, yes I like my leashes and think they are more appropriate in some situations however I never used leashes with the Anarchists.
BTW - I authored the review, not John. It is my opinion in the review but thank you for your input here.

Article: Anarchist Editorial Review
Tai - unfortunate to hear about the stores concerns. I don't think it is really a safety concern as much a quality issue. I'm afraid I didn't adjust the trigger upwards as I have smaller hands and found it comfortable as it was, but I have heard of another person having similar problems. I'm afraid I have no data or further information to offer you on this, at this time.

Article: Cirque Pro Editorial Review
I bought a pair of the B5's last summer but haven't worn them all winter. John - if you want me to do a review then send me an e-mail and we'll talk. I'll be fit enough for climbing again by the weekend but still ice. The B5's will come out again when rock season starts.

The B5's are a narrower fit than the MM's and when I got them I was also considering the Cirques but size availability was an issue at the time as they had just hit the stores. The narrow laces coming untied constantly was also a minor problem for me.

Article: Local Access Issue Affects Climbers Nationwide
I'm not familiar with the area this article relates to nor the issue however I see the potential for government bureaucrats to overstep their authority in other areas. This is a well crafted article with many links and citations to back up the arguments and assertions of the author. I would be upset if this happened to an area near me but I would be more concerned at the bad science the land managers seem to be using. Having worked in climbing access for some years now, I have noticed a trend to imposed regulations based on either bad science or even lack of data. While I cannot fault land managers for acting on their mandate to protect resources, I do take exception to them being closed minded when correct, verifiable, legitimate data is presented in an effort to review regulations.
As a climber, I want to see the areas I visit to be protected for future use. As a climber I value the link I have with the environment. That is why when I look down from some lofty belay ledge, I get a kick out of seeing some regal raptor soaring below me. In return for that honour, I accept the regulations that would have me climb elsewhere along a crag while birds are nesting. I would also hope that such regulations are based on good science.
A final note I found interesting - the concept of making noise approaching a nest area being less of a disturbance than trying to be quiet and not disturb nesting birds, then scaring the parent bird to sudden flight by making unexpected noise closer to the nest. It would seem my hexes really can be more useful than my cams. ;-)

Article: Riff Daypack Editorial Review
Hey John, it looks like the link at the end of the article, to the gear database, is missing.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 2
Wings - good question and something we overlooked asking yesterday. The word is that Petzl will be phasing out the Reversino after the Reverso 3 is introduced. Basically the design of the Reverso 3 grooves will hold the same size range of ropes as both the old Reverso and the Reversino, thereby makeing it one tool for both applications and a new Reversino obsolete.

Article: Red Rocks: A Climber's Guide Editorial Review
Having recently visited RR, and used this new book it was indeed easy to use. I like to browse a guidebook before a trip and the only book I could get locally was Brock's book. Too bad I couldn't get this new one. Worth the money.

Another option to guidebooks are the topo's available from Desert Rock Sports. I think they are also worth a mention here as they are of the same calibre to this new book. A small, highly detailed, laminated card; it contains approach, pitch descriptions, topo, and descent info. They are currently available for about 29 routes and cost $2.99 each. Not exactly a substitute for a guidebook but an excellent supplement. Handy and cheaper than a whole guidebook if you're only around for a couple of days.

I'm not affiliated with the producers although I did meet one of the guys involved. More info at :

Article: Sterling Ion Editorial Review
For sure it's a sweet rope. The hand on it rocks - supple, yet easy to lock off. I've also noticed the fuzz. Stayed good when used on ice but course coral like limestone takes a toll.

BTW - I see you with no helmet again - tut.tut. :-p

Article: Sterling Rope Factory Tour
Ha ha - how many ropes do you have now John? Why does this come to mind "......please sir, can I 'ave some more?".

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter 2010 Wrap-Up
Too bad you didn't post pics of those new Petzl tools John. They've been causing a bit of a stir in the ice community but pics are available on cascadeclimbers. Lots of improvements, also including an upper pommel for the Quark, hammer OR adze for the Nomic, redesigned heads, three pommels for the Ergo, and a different colour/appearance for the Quark to match the Nomic. They're going to be real popular toys.

Article: Pavane- A Requiem for Shady
5 out of 5 stars Poignant. Thanks. Reminds me of someone I know - knew.