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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by dougal (3)


Article: John Scurlock: Peaks of the Northwest
Wonderful photos. Thanks for sharing them. I'm curious about your description of the N. Face of E. McMillan Spire being unclimbed. My partner Bryce Simon and I did the FA of the N. Buttress of E. McMillan in 1976. At least one variation on steeper ground than the buttress itself was done ten or so years later. Perhaps these routes are not considered on the actual face. In any case, your photo took me back to some good memories. Am forwarding to my climbing partner.

Article: John Scurlock: Peaks of the Northwest
HugePedro, Your grandfather is a real hero. I'm saying my thanks right now.

Article: John Scurlock: Peaks of the Northwest

JS, No apologies necessary. I was just guessing that the ascent(s) subsequent to the N. Butt. were on the face. I don't have a really clear memory of what that part of the mountain looked like, other than steep. The N. Butt was a walk by today's standards but I think the approach discourages a lot of people--for good reason. A minor historical point that we chuckle about is that Fred was apparently stalking this route around the same time we were. In fact I'm sure that my partner learned of it from Fred. This was the fourth time my partner Bryce Simon had tried to get on the route, having been weathered out on the previous tries. I recall that we entered a phony destination on the climbing register so as not to tip Fred. I think the record shows Fred was doing another FA on Spider Mtn (?) on the weekend we managed to poach this one.
I wonder if you have any photos of the N.B. of Triumph. That was one of the last N. faces to get done and from what I heard it was a really scary undertaking.