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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by forkliftdaddy (2)


Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '08 - Day 2
Is there any chance of getting a photo of those new tri-cams next to a pink? That would rock for size comparison.

Article: Learning How to Learn
The dynamic belay/"cushioned catch" gets a lot of press these days. IMO it is great when necessary and when circumstances allow. But other times it can be the wrong idea. There's no need for a cushioned catch on sparsely protected slab; the climber's going to get enough road rash without the belayer's help. And there's often no room for a soft catch (or for a big loop of slack) when the climber is close to the ground. As a belayer and a leader, be aware of the potential fall. Things can get complex. For example, the climber might want to miss the lip of a roof, but not hit the ledge below it. And things can be very simple. There remain places where one cannot afford to fall, even on sport routes and especially just below the second bolt.

Arno speaks more at length about these things in his book, a very worthy read.