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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by guangzhou (3)


Article: Access Threatened at Sunset Park (TN)
I am a dog lover too, but I have to admit, taking dogs to the crag seems to create more problems.

I remember climbing at Looking Glass a couple of years back. I was taking some new climbers up the Nose. At the end of the approach trail, where the toutes start, was a dog tied to a tree on a two meter leash. His owners were two pitches up on Sun Dial and the dog was Guarding the area like most dogs would.

With a two meter leash, no bypass on the trail, and no easy way to reach the base of the route, the dog was very upset at us.

One of my partners was bitten, and the other scratched. the owner were pissed at us fr getting their dog upset.

I love taking dogs for a walk or a run, but I do think people should keep the dog at home when climbing. Having a dog hang out at the base while you climb seems to defeat the purpose of getting them out.

Sunset is a great crag. How can climber help?

The access issue does seem to come up in the area every few years.

Cheers
Eman

Article: Doug Robinson and Sean Jones Put Up New Line on S Face of Half Dome
Wow, I really don't miss climbing in the states much. Here we have a pieceof rock that has been seating over Yosemite Valley for ever and a day. A couple of climbers take initiative and put up a route. To make the route fun, they double check to make it will go and climbers condem them for it.

Funny, the route is hard enough that I doubt it will see a second ascent anytime soon anyways. Who knows, I might swing by and climb it just to see if it's good or not. Sounds like a nice line with minimal aid to me.

Once the bolts are placed, the way they were placed is irrelevant. I have put up numerous routes in Asia from the ground up on gear or bolting on lead only to come back later and rap bolt the line to make it a great route instead of a testament to my courage.

In many cases, I was terrified on the first ascent and only finished the elad because of the do or die nature of the line. I see nothing wrong with a first ascent person, placing the bolts anyway he or she sees fit.

Article: Austin Peay Bouldering Competition 2011
http://www.amazon.com/Little-Crimpers-Climbers-Clarksville-Tennessee/dp/1453828907/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319768811&sr=8-2