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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by hugepedro (7)


Article: Danish Climber Dies in Mt.Cook National Park
The guide placed a novice snow climber in a position where the only thing seperating them from a 300m fall was their ability to self arrest??? Unacceptable.

Article: An Auspicious Infancy: The Earliest Days of the Access Fund
Enjoyed the article! I learned how to construct trails from Jim "There will be no steps in my trail!" Angel, may he rest in peace.

Article: John Scurlock: Peaks of the Northwest
My old stomping grounds. My grandfather managed the North Cascades, and he oversaw their transition from National Forest to National Park, and in doing so led the development of the management plan that designated that area to remain remote, pristine, and wild, not developed with roads and lodges like every other National Park.

At the time, in the post-war baby boom, the Dept of Interior was under heavy pressure from the extraction industries to harvest the vast timber and mineral resources there. With much persuasion and helicopter trips to view scenes like the ones in these pictures, my Grandfather was able to change the mind of the Secretary of the Interior, and convince him that the North Cascades should remain wild for future generations to enjoy.

I have a picture of Gramps on Mt. Rainier in my photos. I'm awfully proud of the man, and he's still kicking it at 97 years old.

If you ever find yourself enjoying the amazing beauty of the North Cascades, whether way out there in the Pickets, or from highway 20 (for which my Grandfather surveyed the route on horseback), say a little word of thanks to Harold "Chris" Chriswell, because he is in a large part responsible that this incredible area is preserved for us and generations to come.

Article: Start Climbing - Part 1 : Introduction & Overview
1 out of 5 stars When did "free climbing" become synonymous with "sport climbing", and "solo climbing" synonymous with "free soloing"?


Article: Start Climbing - Part 3 : Basic Indoor and toproping skills.
Jeez, didn't anyone with climbing knowledge proof-read these articles? There are enough errors in these articles to confuse beginners (the intended audience) and possibly even be unsafe. Examples in this one:

"Make sure you buy a good pear-shaped locking carabiner (either screw-gate or locking-gate type)."

Um, a screw-gate IS a locking gate type. What you meant to say was "auto-locking gate type", or perhaps "twist-lock gate type".

"There are also auto-blocking devices out there. These can be excellent for beginners as they will automatically block a fall if a beginner makes a belaying mistake."

Um, a belay device used in auto-block mode is NOT a beginner technique. It is a technique a leader uses to belay a second. You probably meant to say "auto-locking", as in a Gri-Gri.

Article: Black Diamond Merger
"The rest of the executive team at Black Diamond and I will continue our roles, but with the added challenge and responsibility of growing the business as a public company. For nearly 30 years I have led the growth of this company . . ."

There's a big red flag right there. Leading a private company is one thing, quite a different thing from leading a publicly held company. I wonder how many executives on the team have experience leading a public company, or even guiding one through an IPO. To me, this press release has a bit of an air of naivete. If you want to swim with the sharks, first make sure you are not a guppy.

Article: 13 Year Old Completes Everest Climb and Looks Ahead
"the final remaining ascent shall take place in the winter in an attempt to conquer the Vinson Massif in Antarctica."

A winter climb of Vinson? Really? Or perhaps the writer doesn't know that winter North of the Equator is summer South of it?