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Comments by j_ung (76)

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Article: Link Cam Editorial Review
3 out of 5 stars I'd especially like to know how the unit responds to getting its triggers "wires" bent over the lip of a sharp horizontal.

Article: Link Cam Editorial Review
3 out of 5 stars I think it's a good review, but I'd also like to know more about their durability before I drop the coin.

Article: Shadows of Perspective
Powerful ending!

Article: Metolius Offset TCU Editorial Review
5 out of 5 stars Mine is a comment about the review, rather than the gear. The ensuing discussion increases its already considerable value by plenty. Keep it up guys.

Article: Photography of Tim Kemple
Holy shite, Tim. Talk about a psyche up.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '07 (Saturday Edition)
No exclamation points were harmed during the production of this blog. :P Thanks, John! I'm especially happy to hear that Acopa is going strong. Tell folks I said hey.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '07 (Sunday Edition)
Ahem... you'll never guess who wants to review Totem Cams when/if they become a production reality. ;)

Article: The Zephyr: 10.3mm of Wholesome Petzl Rope
Then I think you'll be happy, Adk. Though I, personally, prefer a softer rope, I certainly don't dread using this one. Its stiffness is not an issue as it passes through a belay device. In fact, it locks off quite nicely on everything from a Gri-gri to a Reverso. Definitely inspires confidence.

Article: The Zephyr: 10.3mm of Wholesome Petzl Rope
Rasto, I agree. Given my druthers, I'd also opt for something in a slinky little 9.7 or .8. I wish I'd had the chance to try Petzl's thinner cord!

Article: Mad Science: the Making of Modular Climbing Holds
Not that I know of, camerona91, but damn... what a fun idea. I'll relay that on to the Project Hold fellas. Erikuas, I don't have more info to send, but check their website at the link in the article. Rob, no. ;)

Article: Mad Science: the Making of Modular Climbing Holds
Thanks for the compliments, guys. I'll try to get you more like it for various types of climbing gear. Hi Timothy! Glad to see you on the site!

Article: Australian Climbing Festival gains another high profile speaker
5 out of 5 stars Sweet. It'll be interesting to see how you guys do it down under. Can't believe you got Ilgner to come all the way down there. Oh wait. Yes I can. :)

Article: Mad Science: the Making of Modular Climbing Holds
Hi zenofclimbing. I'm loving your Sentinel at my local gym. Good work.

Article: Mad Science: the Making of Modular Climbing Holds
A follow up would be nice, but it's not going to come from me, I'm afraid. My next one will likely be about pull testing.

Article: Cirque Pro Editorial Review
Are there reviews of other models coming up? A 'graph above says you "took a look at several." I almost dropped coin on a pair of Mandalas the other day for kicking around Fayetteville and light approaching. (Everything at the New is a light approach.) And... Hi Kate! I hope all's well on your side of the continent.

Article: Tales of Tricks by the God I'itoi on Baboquivari Peak, Arizona
5 out of 5 stars Fantastic article! I've been putting off reading it, since it looked kinda large, but it certainly held me the whole way. I've never even heard of this place, but after reading about it, I want to go. Thanks a lot!

Article: Three Climbers at Zion National Park and a Monkey Wrench
The story obviously takes place many years ago. Are you sure your assumptions are accurate for the time frame?

Article: Sterling Nano Editorial Review
One more note; something kind of funny. The last time I had it out, a girl walked by and said something like, "Wow, that sure is a skinny rope. How thick is it?" I told her 9.2 and the look on her face was like I was carrying a rack of slung newborn babies to stuff into cracks.

Article: Sterling Nano Editorial Review
Thanks folks.

Peter, I've had it since early spring and at a guess it's been tied into probably 40-50 times. A few of those have been toprope attempts that tickled my guilt bone like you wouldn't believe. And yet, I can report no appreciable damage. I'd be lying if I said there was NO wear and tear. But certainly, not any more than you expect on any thicker rope. I think I mentioned above -- and this is going to be standard practice for all of my reviews from now on -- I'll be back in a couple months with an update on durability. I wonder if this thing can take a whole season of use as a primary rope.

I've had no tangle trouble whatsoever. In fact, as with every thin single rope I've used (I've tried others a time or two and also own a BlueWater 9.4mm Dominator), rope management gets easier the thinner the cord is.

And as for Gri-gri use, be careful what you assume. Haha! Dbrayack belayed me once or twice with a Gri-gri. He reports that it worked, for the most part, fine, but that he made a conscious effort to do things by the book, so to speak. Maybe he'll join in and comment further.

Article: The Zephyr: 10.3mm of Wholesome Petzl Rope
UPDATE: After logging some more serious mileage on this particular cord, I think I can safely say that it didn't hold up to regular use as well as I would have liked. The sheath fuzzed out pretty substantially within a month or so of bringing it back out for the spring, and on a 10.3mm cord, that means a pretty thick rope. Combine that with the aforementioned stiff hand, and I can't say I'm thrilled.

I think these ropes are probably damned fine, but I want to try a different thickness before rendering my final verdict on durability. Petzl suggested sending me a 9.8 to compare the two. They seem very interested in feedback, which is exactly what I expect from a class outfit.

It's worth mentioning that I find myself wondering if I somehow managed to expose it to some sort of chemical. When the new one arrives, I'll put it into action immediately and brutally, then post up a new review. It's going to have a hard life, that new rope. Jugging, toproping and many falls are in its near future.

Jay

Article: Sterling Nano Editorial Review
Nope, I don't work for Sterling. I try to talk to the companies whose products I review to get a feel for what their goals for the product are, why they developed it and how smoothly (or not) the development process went.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
5 out of 5 stars Second (third? fourth?) the request for more pics, including close ups, of the Metolius cams! Excellent work, John! Bloody fantastic!

Article: The Zephyr: 10.3mm of Wholesome Petzl Rope
Sorry, no links allowed in article posts. You'll have to copy and past.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1785716

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1678065

Until Petzl sorts this out, best to steer clear of the Zephyr.

Article: Roped Solo Free Climbing - The essence of self-reliance, one path among many
Thanks, Joseph! After 22 years, I'm finally thinking about climbing this way and this article is a big help.

Article: Sonnie Trotter's Eastern slide show tour - Indian Summer
Canada wants more munnay! :P

Article: GoPro Hero Editorial Review
Aye, riverboarding's pretty freaking hilarious, Matt. I'll take you sometime, if you want. Time2clmb, that's exactly what I thought when I had my first one, only I wasn't half as charitable as you are. Now I think it's a good idea that has potential, but which also has a little way to go to reach it. One point I touched only briefly on in the review that I want to pay more time to is the the user's battery choice. You really only have one: Use Energizer Lithium batteries (NOT the rechargeable kind) or own a malfunctioning, temperamental chunk of plastic. If you weren't using those, it's no wonder you hate it. And, if you were using those, I suggest you get in touch with the GoPro folks. They really do seem interested in having happy customers.

Article: GoPro Hero Editorial Review
Thanks, thanks... One other thing (home movies reminded me), don't use it in low light situations. This little thing definitely works best in bright conditions.

Article: GoPro Hero Editorial Review
Next time I see your wife, I'm going to tell her you're fixated on my crotch. ;)

Article: Sterling Nano Editorial Review
Oh, one additional note: Despite its durability, I probably shouldn't recommend this rope for anybody looking for a first cord, a major workhorse or a bigwall rope. There. My ass is covered!

Article: Sterling Nano Editorial Review
UPDATE:
It has now been almost a year since I submitted this review and well over a year since I first put the Nano into use. Well, it's still going. From all around me, I hear reports of others misusing Nanos and laying down pitch after pitch. One friend took only Nanos on a trip to India, beat them like a government mule and is also still using them. I certainly notice wear on this rope, but it's far less than I would have expected and I have yet to surgically remove even a single inch of it. My only complaint is that, as with pretty much every Sterling rope I've used, it collects 'biner cheese like my climbing shoes collect stink. My hands haven't been even remotely clean on a climbing day for some time.

(An interesting side note... the odyssey of rope research that Sterling endured while developing the Nano led to redesigns of a significant portion of its line up. That and investments in new technology have resulted in an almost brand-wide increase in drop-tower falls held. Sterling plans to (if they haven't already) submit several models to the UIAA for re-certification.)

I just bought -- that's right BOUGHT -- a Sterling Ion 9.5mm, so I'm probably going to set the Nano aside for a few weeks. But you can bet your ass I'm going to wash it and keep using it. Hey, Sterling, keep making them like this, huh?

Article: GoPro Hero Editorial Review
Good point, pug. I think an extra $20 for a gig-sized card would be nice.

Article: GoPro Hero Editorial Review
According to vegastradguy's Summer-OR-Show blog, the newest version of the Hero has the wide-angle lens and megapixels. Good job GoPro!

Article: Sterling Ion Editorial Review
This year my cat destroyed four of my ropes. The only rope I have left is my Ion... thank God.

Article: Stick Clip Tricks for Sport Climbers
Right, me too, but the above tricks are the only ones I can get to work consistently and easily no matter what type of biners I'm using. Notched biners are a particular problem with all the other tricks I know.

Article: Stick Clip Tricks for Sport Climbers
There's another trick that entails putting a small rock or a chunk of stick in the stickclip to keep the clamp open. Then you grab the biner's gate with the propped open clamp and twist it off. I could never get it to work well with anything other than keylock biners, though. Thanks for the added trick, tipton.

Article: Stick Clip Tricks for Sport Climbers
The rodeo clip? Fun!

Article: Stick Clip Tricks for Sport Climbers
A-Bowl, I do consider that a redpoint, as long as we're talking about sport climbing. But in the grand, cosmic scheme of things, I don't think it really matters.

Article: Five Minutes: John Bachar and Kurt Smith
Kurt and his wife are friends, and I was down in Brevard for the Bachar slideshow/Looking Glass Outfitters grand re-opening. That stars just aligned that way. To be totally honest (shame coming) it was a little bit longer but it was my first time with a new digi recorder and I f-ed it up. This is the best stuff, though. There will be more like this in the future! "Five Minutes" is pretty easy to get, what with the plethora of rendezvous and slideshows these days.

Article: Photo Essay: The Birds' Nests Collectors of Thailand
Though there are certainly cases in which nests for birds' nest soup are harvested prematurely, my research (and I did look into this some before publishing) turned up the worst cases in Indonesia and Malaysia. Lao Liang appears to be of a different ilk. There was more to the article when it was submitted, but it strayed pretty far from climbing and didn't make the cut. Here are some parts of it that address ecological issues:

"Birdsí nest collecting is a lucrative business and is tightly controlled. The collectors have an exclusive government concession to collect nests in the Marine Park. The nest-collection concession, which is auctioned every 5 years, costs about THB 100,000,000. The nests are so precious that they are protected by guards during the collection season, in order to deter robbers who might steal them. The guards also protect the birds from natural predators such as snakes, cockroaches and eagles."

Also: "A sustainable supply of birdsí nests is ensured and the survival of the species is protected because nests are collected only when empty. The most productive island for nests is Koh Petra, from which over 100 kg of nests are collected 3 times in a good year. Koh Lao Liang supplies about 30 kg of nests 3 times a year. After the chicks have flown away the mother will eat the nest in order to replenish her energy supply. The collectors, of whom there are 60 in the Koh Petra Marine Park, must find the nest before the mother eats it."

Article: Photo Essay: The Birds' Nests Collectors of Thailand
Good question. Other than general statements regarding sustainability, I didn't find anything on it. I wonder if any studies have actually gone that deep.

Article: A Linville Link-Up
Disclaimer! This was late spring in 1999, so some of the details are fuzzy. For example, there may have been more than three redwater caches and some of the times are approximate. The start and end times are exact, however. I'll never forget those. Ours may have been the first Linville link up (not sure), but it definitely wasn't the last, nor honestly, was it the most bad ass. See here: http://carolinaclimbers.org/components/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1545&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Article: Photo Essay: The Birds' Nests Collectors of Thailand
I think the confusion may actually lay in the photo caption I added. I didn't realize other people hauled them up. I thought they climbed the line themselves. Can't comment on the other stuff except to say that, when I worked on a ropes course one time, we used 550 cord to pull climbing ropes through anchors. I don't remember what the hitch we used was called, but it worked well. This is hard to picture, but we tied the thin cord around the rope with a clove hitch (about 1.5 inches from the end of the rope), then created a loop and put it around the rope right near the end. It went right through every time.

Article: A Linville Link-Up
Freeledgeledgy, yeah, I know. That day, neither one of us was in any condition to climb intelligently, but on subsequent ascents I've placed it. All either of us saw that day was loose blocks. I think the first time back there after this, I saw the gear and rolled my eyes almost to the back of my skull!

Article: A Linville Link-Up
Goodman is a silent monster. He's been sneaking in and putting up hard, bold FAs here, too. He gets it done in the big mountains, the little mountains, the crags, the boulders... you name it.

Article: A Linville Link-Up
peon, I'm actually working on that, but it'll take a while. I needed to get something new posted (trying for two new articles per week) and this was the only thing really ready to go. I'll probably re-feature this article later when I have the vid ready. It's all on VHS right now, and it's really just a collection of raw footage. I still need to digitize it and do some editing.

Article: A Linville Link-Up
What Spyderco? I have no idea what you're talking about. Who are you, anyway?

Article: The SCC & Yellow Bluff
No kidding, huh? :)

Article: The SCC & Yellow Bluff
From the SCC: only $1408 left until they reach their goal. I gave $200. Come on RC.com. Let's put them over the top!

Article: The SCC & Yellow Bluff
Just heard from contacts at the AF (and confirmed on SCC website) that the goal has been reached! They still needs funds for other stuff, though, like a parking lot. Keep 'em coming!

Article: An Auspicious Infancy: The Earliest Days of the Access Fund
I might be able to, but probably not today. I've got to knock off and do the holiday thing. I'll look into it in a day or so -- thanks for the suggestion!
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