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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by johnny2plat (1)

Article: Learning How to Learn

Great article. I just finished re-reading the Rock Warrior's Way and was looking for more info. on falling. This is all really helpful. I'm looking forward to getting in some "falling practice" next time I go out.

During my 30 years of climbing experience I've fallen many times and never gotten seriously hurt. My only "serious" fall was early on in my climbing career at Smith Rock. My feet blew off a lieback and I flew about 15'. I got a little bit more scraped up than the gal in the picture but was otherwise OK.

What I learned from that fall was that the nut below my feet held (yeah!) but the other 3 nuts below that pulled when the rope went taught (yikes!). If the upper nut hadn't held, I imagine the whole thing would zipper and I would be taking a "dirt nap". I learned an incredibly valuable lesson about the importance of using long slings (especially when placing nuts), setting a "reverse nut" at the start of the climb, and telling your belayer to stay close to the rock. This learning experience may save my life someday on future climbs.