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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by le_bruce (5)

Article: Black Diamond C3 Editorial Review
One important downside that I found while aiding: in the smaller sizes, the fat, plastic casing around the stem and wires makes it very difficult to view the head of the cam to check the quality of the placement. With Aliens, you can simply bend the stem up and away and make sure that the lobes are going to hold your ass when you step onto your aider. Much harder to judge this with the small c3's. I found myself having to step onto the aider to get over the placement and look down on it - defeating the purpose of checking a placement!
Still, I love em. Backcleaned and placed the red one five times on the great roof of the nose.

Article: The Huber Brothers Conquer El Cap
Absolutely stunning feat, but damn it leaves a bitter taste the way it's marketed here. You can't 'conquer' El Cap - what climber would ever want to come off sounding like that? Press contacts, Zooom Productions, Suunto - f all this stuff. Though it does go nicely with the big Armani banner at the top of It's a shame to even mention Harding in such a soulless piece. Wretched stuff, folks.

Article: Metolius Master Cam Editiorial Review
Thanks for the piece. Agree that you seem reluctant to be critical, almost apologetic - maybe just your style, looking for the good side of things in life. For the three 'concerns' you note, you eventually qualify each with phrases like "a small thing" "a small concern" "really not an issue for me". In reality, this is not a 'strictly volunteer' write-up, as you say: you were compensated with +/- $360 worth of gear for 500 or so words. Maybe you cared less about the negative aspects of the cams b/c you didn't have to lay out a fat wad of cash for them? I wouldn't say I learned nothing, but I agree that some bias might have crept into your point of view.

Article: Metolius Master Cam Editiorial Review
VTG, thanks for further comment and there's no need to explain yourself. Every writer can benefit from some critical feedback, right? That's all my comment was. I apologize for confusing your 'voluntary' comment, and I appreciate the write-up! Now get out there and put some scratches on those babies! Got to take that first fall on new gear sometime!

Article: Sterling Ion Editorial Review
You don't have to be a dirtbag to buy rope for cost.

I drive a beater mid-90's Subaru, and climb on a $110 rope. Not a BMW or $210 rope kind of guy, especially if that $210 is going to last me 1 year.