Skip to Content

Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by mandryd (4)

Article: Belay Device Friction Test
1 out of 5 stars I appreciate the scientific nature of this study, but I feel this study could be better as I don't believe it truly addresses the needs of climbers.

What do I look for in a sport ATC?
-easy feeding yes. however, 45 degrees is not enough angle for those who belay palm up. I feed at probably 70 degrees. I believe even palm down belayers will use more angle than 45.
-solid lock off at full lock. Basically any ATC can catch a climber at 55 degree lock. What we're really looking for is friction at full lock for those times when your climber is hang dogging. I know you mention this in your article, but there are HUGE differences in full lock off the standard BD ATC. That was my first ATC and I remember trying to hold people on a 9.8mm rope with that ATC was a nightmare even at full lock. My trango jaws, in comparison, is effortless at full lock. The catch of a fall is only a short instant. If the climber is hang dogging, then the belayer will son switch to a full lock off and thus this is why i stress the increased importance of results at full lock.

Article: Belay Device Friction Test
1 out of 5 stars did you actually test results for this with a meaningful amount of weight? Where are your results to proove this statement? i guarantee you if you put 200 pounds on the end of the rope and put it at full lock you will find significant differences.

also when feeding slack it's more of a transition movement from lock to full open. to pretend that measuring at 45 degrees is representative of the true slack feeding process is ludicrous. the "resistance" you often feel is the friction at lesser degrees. ALSO some devices when in full lock will bite down on the rope. This also contributes to the ease of feeding out slack after a belayer has placed the rope in a full lock position.

if you are going to make a scientific article with real statistics, be careful of putting in statements that are not supported. Belaying is a much more complex procedure than +45 and -55 degrees. I appreciate the effort though and keep up the good/backbreaking work.

Article: Damnit, Jim, I'm a Climber Not a Carpenter
5 out of 5 stars heh. like i said, i'm a climber not a carpenter :).
Any points you real carpenters out there make will probably end up helping someone out in the long run, so keep them coming.

Article: Damnit, Jim, I'm a Climber Not a Carpenter
5 out of 5 stars thanks for the comments everyone. Good points by everyone.
Devil: cool. I didn't realize there was a standard to the rung distances. That's good to know when comparing your accomplishments to others. With regard to my non-arbitrary distances, I'm just happy to improve my numbers and once I get close to 1-5-9 on my board (which is already a ridiculously huge move) I'll worry about comparing to the rock gods' true 1-5-9.
Yeah, Matt, I added some more support under the the board after the pic was taken. My original idea was to camber the support (it's bowed from cambering, not weight sag) to add some "push" upwards, but my architect friend later pointed out that you can not camber wood as it just ends up warping.

I'll update the guide soon a credit will be given where due (thanks!).