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Comments by moeman (2)

Article: The Most Difficult Big Wall Free Climbs in the World
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Silbergeier: FA Beat Kammerlander--1994(!), 14a, Ratikon, Bolted, Many Repeats

WoGu, Ondra-2008, 14b, Ratikon, sparsely bolted. Unrepeated?

Zahir Plus: 14a/b (by the "+" variation)

Viaje de los Locos, FA Andrada, 14a, Sardinia, Recent female repeat by DiGulian

Dunn-Westbay, FFA T.C. and undercover crusher Joe Mills, 14a, the Diamond

Direct Northwest Face Half Dome, Skinner, 1993 (at 13d); 2nd ascent by T.C. in 2007, with linked crux pitches to produce a 14a grade (

And "coming soon;" the Tom Egan, Bugaboos, 14a?, work in progress by Segal and Stanhope, might go free this summer

And "the future": Todd Skinner's free project on Leaning Tower (Yosemite) is possible but will, by all accounts, be massively next-level, perhaps even beyond the Dawn Wall. No one actively working it; Honnold scoped it out a few years ago and decided that it would be way too hard and too much work.

I also imagine that with a more liberal attitude toward bolting over old aid/hooking pitches, that much 5.14 would be found on the right side of El Cap. The community will really need to decide what it values more- a pitch of 5.14 crimping or a pitch of A4 hooking (assuming that freeing said 5.14 without bolt protection is deemed unreasonable).

Article: The Most Difficult Big Wall Free Climbs in the World
Note: Orbayu also repeated by Cedric Lachat in 2014. Nina Caprez sent all the pitches, but did not manage a single-push ascent.