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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by norskagent (2)

Article: The Mental Toughness Error
Is downclimbing a lost art? Back-in-the-day we would routinely reclimb several sections of some trad routes, not only getting the moves wired but also getting higher protection arranged and essentially toproping up to the last gear for the redpoint. On early Zoo View ascents we would climb out and clip the bolt carrying only the quickdraw necessary, then back climb to the ledge. Then don the rack and climb the route.

Article: The Mental Toughness Error
In the late 80s I witnessed much the same scenerio as Arno described. The climber's name was Chip, and he was a fair climber a few leads under his belt. One problem though, he hadn't led much at Moore's. Most of his lead experience was at Stone Mtn., where he had led up to 5.10. So I guess he figured Zoo View 5.7 at Moore's would go smoothly. He climbed up past the bolt, went left as Arno describes, got shakey, pumped out and fell. Because the pitch starts off the Crow's Nest ledge, it was not a clean fall. His head (no helmet) took a hit at the ledge and he had to be "rescued" by Fire, EMS, etc. He recovered physically but I don't believe he climbed again. By the way, the "left" version of Zoo View is the only way I have led the route. Not sure of Craig's exact path but there is gear to be had going that way, and a super resty stance shortly thereafter. jp