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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by nzcragrat (2)

Article: Danish Climber Dies in Mt.Cook National Park
She made no attempt to self arrest despite having demonstrated ample proficiency over previous days.

Article: Safer Rappelling on Multipitch Climbs
My 2 cents worth.

- A prusik ( Klemheist or French above your descender can stop you abseiling off the end of your rope or dealing with a mis threaded device.
- The prusik below the device works best on steep/free hanging abseils and gives you more control.
- The extended device has virtually no drawbacks therefore forget about the leg loop method.
- The prussic below method is horrendous to use on slabs, diagonal abseils and that combo in the rain!!

I have seen a leg loop attached prusik fail ( well the buckle came undone) and surprisingly nothing happened because contrary to expectations the French prussic got sucked into and jammed in the ATC long enough for control to be reestablished.