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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by paintrain (1)


Article: Ice Climbing 101
4 out of 5 stars Good intro. Don't dissuade beginners from leashless, especially if they are gym rats. It is more natural and less stuff to get tangled in.

The leader must never fall. You can climb ice like a cat swinging like a skinny armed wuss or you can clean the dinner plates and move off positive sticks. Leaving a beat out track, just means you were the early riser. "Live" by the philosophy that every stick is a belay. Expending energy cleaning a well placed tool is a smaller price than medical bills from falling on ice.

Ice screws are only as good as the ice they are in. This is hard to judge as most folks try not to test them and lab tests are generally in controlled conditions. Julio seems to have nine lives on ice, while most of the people I have known to take a fall it usually comes out 50/50 on getting seriously injured or not. Falling with sharp things catching on all manner of protrusions leads to ankles and legs breaking, and tumbling (all bad when medieval weapons are involved). Protect yourself and don't apologize for it.

It does take years and (most of all) a lot of mileage to understand the medium. It changes from day to day, it has avalanche danger, and logistic hazards you don't see rock climbing at the local crag.

Be careful and be safe.