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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by sbmerkei (2)

Article: Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous
I see what Arno is trying to do here too. Firstly, I think he is putting words to a process that many of us do on our own without knowing it – which is good. This process is the reason I climb, the clean slate pure mental focus on the “now” of the climb. I am not sure that I am 100 percent sold on how he wants to teach it for several reasons. I think that a lot of this preparation and mental acuity is reached through putting in time on the rock via trad climbing, something many people never attempt. A lot of people jump into higher grades on sport walls and have forgotten about trad. Trad forces you to predict the route, climb with deliberation, plan gear placements (the where and quality of) and truly assess your consistent climbing ability. I am all for sport climbing, but I think that more climbers would reach this mental preparedness by slowing down their chasing the grade mentality and putting themselves on trad walls at lower grades. Trad taught me to respect the rock because it can be unforgiving. All too often sport only climbers think they are at a gym that just happens to be outdoors. When this is the case, it is no wondering they are scrambling up grades hurriedly and half scared. They shouldn’t be chasing a grade and it appears they don't respect the rock. Most importantly they should be enjoying the climb.

Article: Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous
Bravo TurboGroveller, Trad assesses your real climbing ability and makes you a stronger climber - great to hear that you had the same experience I did with the personal development. On an additional note - I bet you enjoyed sport climbing even more - as you described with your increased confidence and ability to adapt to the climb. I find myself more relaxed on climbs (sport or trad) as a direct result of trad climbing. I will stop after placing a piece of pro and lie back to catch the view. When I first started climbing I was scrambling up rarely noticing anything besides the immediate rocks in front of me! I am lucky to be climbing in a place like the Gunks as my home court because the views are unreal, rock is bomber and the trad climbing is top notch. Hope some people follow TurboGroveller's lead.