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Rock Climbing : Comments

Comments by superbum (8)

Article: Cirque Pro Editorial Review
Oh yea, they are very light and pack down very well too. I've had them in my pack and on the harness of many long climbs and they went un-noticed.

Article: Cirque Pro Editorial Review
I own these shoes and have had my share of problems w/ them. It all began when trying them on in the store. There was a "burr" of jagged metal on the top lace eyelet that almost cut through the lace when I tried them on and pulled them tight. No biggie (except the store had only one pair in my size and had to special order another.) shit happens.

Two weeks later The replacements camne in and I got 'em. Two weeks after that, I had a split seam large enough to stick my pinkie into on the outside yelloe seam of the shoe. They had gone aprox. 8-10 miles and climbed two peaks (3rd and 4th class) in the sierra. I returned them for a warranty replacement and recieved a new pair from the shop. Kinda lame, but at least they replaced them for free! I made sure to COVER them w/ seam sealer before I took 'em out again.

I began wearing them more and more in the mountains and would always arrive back at the car after approaches of as litle as 4 miles w/ aching feet. I HAD to buy insoles (not the end of the world, but something new for me) and they GREATLY improved comfort. I strongly suggest insoles w/ these shoes, even though it bumps the price up another 15-30 bucks :(

Now that they were seam sealed and modified w/ insoles, I began to take them up 5th class routes. I even soloed 5.6 on Mt. Conness, 5.5 on Tenaya peak (both in Tualomne) 5.6 on Lone Pine Peak, and led a .10a sport climb in the Owens river gorge w/ them. They climb VERY well. The best non-climbing climbing shoe ever in my opinion...

however...after one summer of use in the Sierra (4-12 miles of trail a week, and much 3rd and 4th class) they are TRASHED. the rand is nonexistant, (you can peel off strips of plastic underneath) and the soles are COMPLETELY smooth. Sure I coulda got a resole, but it started to get cold and they were demoted to comfy status and bouldering approaches...

While an EXCELLENT climber, the durability and comfort issues will steer me to purchase something else. Probably the LA Sportiva Exum Ridges...

vic lawson

Article: 22 hour monster Link-up in Red Rocks
link ups are a pain in the ass, hard, tiring, and I get ulcer pains just thinking about them...nevertheless, they serve as a giant inspiration to get the eastern sierra (I live in Bishop, CA) there are SO many linkups and traverses that require stamina and longsuffering and I view those as (yes, means unto themselves, but also) as training for places like Patagonia and PAkistan, etc. Besides hard downclimbing(trust WILL be huge!), giant linkups (think el cap twice in a day!) are the future of the sport! Who's gonna link Cerro Torre, Strandhart and Egger?????

Article: Mushroom Boulder at Hueco Tanks--CLOSED
OH gawd! My life is OVER, everyone knows there are no other good boulders in Hueco! AHHH! Those Nazi Facist Rangers!

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '08 - Day 3
June 1st for the Reverso 3? Bummer, I heard sooner than that. Does that date include online retailers as well??

VERY interested in the arcteryx harness review...I am looking to buy one for long alpine multiday and winter afairs. Durability, ease of use, weight, and comfort are paramount. Please bore us to death w/ ALL the details! Before i drop $100+ on a harness I wanna know as much as poss. beforehand! Please tell us what you think of the haul loop as well... (BTW, I will still use my Misty Mountain Cadillac for long trad and cragging).

Thanks, looking forward to an indepth review!

Article: Arc'teryx WST Harness Editorial Review
Arcteryx's website has not updated their info to include this harness line! Unbelievable, considering there are online reviews allready and I've seen them in shops too! I am curious about the sizing range...I do really want one (the X350a) but deffinately want to get the size right. Any insider info on sizing?? Also, the haul loop on the R320 (the one i've seen in da shops) looks kinda chincy...hopefully the X350a might have a beefier one??

Article: TOTEM CAMS and More -- Vegastradguy Blogs from OR Winter
Does Sportiva have their new AT Ski boot on display??? GAWD I wanna see that thing in person! I know this is "" but boy howdy, this is an industry altering event! Could you possibly revisit them???

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer '09, Day 1
lace up shoe nerds in Bishop are psyched.

DMM cams are exciting...

Don't forget to head over to Cilogear if they have a booth!