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Comments by vegastradguy (118)

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Article: Metolius Offset TCU Editorial Review
Yup- two small lobes, one larger.

Article: Metolius Offset TCU Editorial Review
Well, the whole TCU v FCU argument is sort of interesting here. I have three cams from three folks- the Green Alien, the Yellow C3, and the Blue TCU- all relatively the same size cam, give or take. The TCU and the C3's outer lobes (at maximum contact for the C3- as it tapers) are bigger than the lobes of an Alien. At its thinnest point of contact, the outer lobe of a C3 is only a millimeter or so smaller than an Alien. Now, the center lobe of a TCU is the size of two lobes of an Alien- while the center lobe of a C3 ranges between 1.5 lobes on an Alien to about 2.75 lobes on an Alien! So, for surface area, i'd say in an ideal placement, the C3 has the most contact with the rock, and the TCU and the Alien have about the same, with possibly a little more for the TCU, due to the center lobe being one solid piece and the Alien having two lobes....even in a less than ideal placement (but one that would still be good enough to climb above), the C3 would still maintain a large amount of contact with the rock, perhaps being equal to or microscopically less than the TCU and Alien....and then in a marginal placement...even though the C3 would start to lose the battle (by a millimeter or so), if you've got a marginal placement on any of these cams, you're running on a prayer (and probably a screamer) anyway.....

Article: Metolius Offset TCU Editorial Review
Point taken- of course, i probably should have caveated my whole comment with the fact that i was comparing standard cams, not hybrids. i wasn't thinking in terms of flares, which, in hindsight is sort of silly, but what are you going to do? i do believe, though, that in many flares you get much more than partial contact of the lobe with the rock, and in those cases, this argument does hold some water.

Article: Metolius Offset TCU Editorial Review
Crotch- i'm really comparing width of lobe, not so much the length of the lobe....in any placement, the length of the lobe is really irrelevant- the width is what matters.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '07 (Saturday Edition)
Thanks for the compliments everyone....i havent got as many appointments today, so tonights blog should have some more off the beaten trail stuff....see you tonight!

Article: The Zephyr: 10.3mm of Wholesome Petzl Rope
4 out of 5 stars Nice review, Jay...even nicer pictures! Care to loan me your photographer for my articles? ;)

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '07 (Sunday Edition)
macherry- yeah, the casual shoes are still in the lineup- i didnt cover it at the show because they havent really changed it- the big news for them is the pontas and the athena.

Article: The Zephyr: 10.3mm of Wholesome Petzl Rope
4 out of 5 stars retails at $180.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '07 (Monday Edition)
MSR recommends using their canister (the big red canister is available pretty much anywhere in the US), but it'll work with others- its just a standard screw on canister. I'll be honest and say that I havent travelled enough to know whether canisters from other countries will work on this stove- but it'll be a question of screw on capability, not fuel. Any Isobutane mix will do ya.

Article: The Zephyr: 10.3mm of Wholesome Petzl Rope
4 out of 5 stars Bah, i forgot the Full Disclosure statement: Petzl gave this rope to rockclimbing.com free of charge and we supplied it to j_ung as compensation for his review. Petzl does not currently advertise on rockclimbing.com. 2/1/07

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '07 (Monday Edition)
ah, sorry- TNF actually cancelled their appointment- i'll edit the article to reflect this. sorry!

oh, and i asked about the hanging reactor- and like jetboil, the stove is new so expect improvements and addtions in the future.

Article: Anarchist Editorial Review
the reviews authors are always noted in the front page link, although i should probably ensure they are at the top of each review- sorry about that. i certainly know absolutley nothing about ice....i live in the desert and stay as far away from freezing temps as possible- hence the guy in Canada gets all the ice gear!

thanks for folks input as always!

Article: Cirque Pro Editorial Review
well- i think that Sportiva wanted a review based on what the shoe was designed for-- and, while walls are certainly a possible application, the shoe was designed for the trail and some climbing. Walls are very abusive to anything you take up 'em....and frankly, i'm not sure this particular shoe would have held up to a trip up the big stone....

Article: Cirque Pro Editorial Review
well well, looks like ze approach shoe got some love! excellent. i'll talk with the crew and some manufacturers and see if we cant get some more reviews of this sort! thanks kate!

Article: Riff Daypack Editorial Review
lol, i dont drink, but i think its cool, so i mentioned it for folks. most of my friends just use a carabiner to open bottles, although i tried to get them to use it!

Article: Riff Daypack Editorial Review
woops! i'll get the link in there as soon as i can. i didnt use the ice axe attachment- sorry, i'm a desert rat. i dont do cold!

Article: Riff Daypack Editorial Review
good point! as a side note that i forgot to put in the review- the stash pockets on the sides of the pack have a good enough elastic on them to keep stuff in there. i had a belay seat stashed in one of them while doing a couple of walls recently and it stayed put nicely (although i did have it tethered!).

Article: Moutain Hardwear's UltraLamina 15 Sleeping Bag Editorial Review
ouch- i like to think that i tested the bag given the time and situations i was able to. i spent about 10 nights in the bag, and my friends spent an additional 2 or 3. My apologies that i wasnt able to test it in the backcountry or snow- but car camping, semi-warm weather use and cold weather use are all covered.....

Article: Moutain Hardwear's UltraLamina 15 Sleeping Bag Editorial Review
I should have included this in the review, but the Ultralamina at the OR show that I saw stuffed to the same size as a 20 degree down bag that Mountain Hardwear had on display. Given that their compression sack is somewhat weak, I'd be willing to say that the compression is similar, maybe a little less than a similar down bag.

Thanks for the info on the down- I dont own any down bags because i dont do anything that really necessitates having one. I live in the desert and car camp exlusively....and unfortunately, that did limit my testing, but editorial considerations restricted my choice of reviewers for this bag....

Article: Moutain Hardwear's UltraLamina 15 Sleeping Bag Editorial Review
murf- point taken on the comparison, although i do my best to keep the loft up in my old bag. the truth is, though, i dont ever remember being that warm in my 2nd dimension- until i tried the ultralamina, i've always been cold in jtree....

Article: Moutain Hardwear's UltraLamina 15 Sleeping Bag Editorial Review
maybe, although i'm pretty happy with the ultralamina- it'll likely be my standard bag for at least the next couple of seasons. plus, i'm cheap when it comes to bags, i cant imagine spending more than $190 on a bag....

Article: 22 hour monster Link-up in Red Rocks
well, the boys who did this want someone to do this all free, and are encouraging folks to come out and do their best. they think of this as an inspiration for others.

i'll also say that if this was me, i'd be shouting it from the rooftops- its a hell of an accomplishment- so what if they want to celebrate?

Article: 22 hour monster Link-up in Red Rocks
why? if a local wants it mentioned, its easy enough to do.....

Article: Metolius Crag Station Editorial Review
I did notice that my straps and back area got nicely dusty and dirty when at the crag, but then, all of my other packs have this problem too, since i tend to lay them down the same way, but this pack at least gives me access while its getting dirty!

Article: Metolius Crag Station Editorial Review
Ah, i forgot to say that the reason the harness system is so spare is due to the ability to pack it away when not in use. I thought I had put that in there, but alas, no such luck. Check out http://www.metoliusclimbing.com for pictures.

Article: Metolius Crag Station Editorial Review
this pack will haul a rope in a bag or on its own plus all the basics- harness, helmet, personal gear, shoes, water, food, and easily fit all your draws or some draws and a light rack.

Article: Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut Editorial Review
they're noticeably lighter than my hb offsets and my bd stoppers.

i have not noticed any slop in the cable from the lack of a swage- they place just like any other nut.

the 30% weight savings is mostly from the lack of a swage. sorry about not getting the specs- i'll see if i can get them and post them here in a few days.

Article: Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut Editorial Review
thanks for grabbing the specs. i looked around, but my connection is slow (i'm on the road) and i was impatient! oh well, thanks again! (ps- if you climb in squamish, you should absolutely without a doubt buy a set of these- this place EATS THEM UP!!!!)

Article: Sterling Nano Editorial Review
5 out of 5 stars fyi- none of our reviewers work for any climbing gear companies or within the industry- as much as some of us would like to!

Article: Black Diamond nForce Editorial Review
5 out of 5 stars bd told me that the straight teeth actually decrease rope wear compared to the downward pointing teeth. the way the nForce works is by levering the straight teeth into the sheath, acting as a clamp (kinda like the grigri, only with teeth). also, the teeth are not nearly as aggressive as the Petzl ascenders.

that said, i'll leave it to kate to answer it from a users perspective.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
i wont be able to during the show, but i'll make sure to measure it and report back when i do the review- look for that around the time they're released in the spring.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
re: offset Master cams. no word, Metolius is looking to introduce the normal cams first. i did emphasize that offsets would be sweet, though.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
re: BD big wall harness. its a spring release, so the soonest we could get them would be early 2008. we'll try, though.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
re: the master cams. sorry about the photos. i kept one larger pic, but my camera doesnt like the show. i'll try to upload it and link to it. they do not have internal springs (thats patented by CCH), but dont need them. The long top section is actually mostly a spring wrapped around the cable, not solid aluminum. They bend really nicely!

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
the action is good on them, they feel like....somwhere between the C3 and the Alien....

as for scarpa, my apologies, but we didnt really get into the ice boots. that stuff is more for the winter show for fall release. anything new they have for this fall would have been covered in the OR Winter Market articles. Scarpa is focusing on rock shoes @ this show...

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 2
well, the reverso 3 is billed to work on up to 11mm ropes and the tapered friction slots get more aggressive the smaller the rope, so the 11mm should work fairly well, although the atc-guide works fine on anything up to 10.5mm as far as i've experienced....which is as fat as most ropes get these days.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 2
by the way, you can find a bigger photo of the Master cams here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1654540;#1654540
sorry i didnt link it into the article or comment, but time was against me this morning!!!

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
On another note: I was fortunate enough to be able to spend a day with Arc'teryx on Sunday climbing in the new harnesses. Although it wasnt a full test, I have to say that I'm very impressed with them and I'm looking foward to reviewing the harness fully this fall/winter. Look for a review on rc.com shortly before they arrive in stores!

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
everything at the Summer Market is for Spring '08, with a few exceptions. Likewise, everything at the Winter Market in January will be for Fall '08. you'll note that i try to let you know when everything will hit the stores...

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 3
it'll be the smaller pin, not the sling. i saw both at the show, and there's no reason to think that the sling wouldnt be as strong as the pinks sling....

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 3
etaexpress and the mf version hit the stores in the spring.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 2
the nuts are the same exact nut as the HB offset, so the sizes i listed are the old HB sizes. truthfully, i dont know that they'll keep those sizes listed or not. probably, as that will make them in-line with the old HBs.

as for a non blurry picture- sorry, thats the best of the lot, the grate that they're hanging on really messed with my flash and, unfortunately, i am nothing if not photo incompetent.

Article: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '07 - Day 1
as far as i know, the 5x's are the same as the moccs- which i believe are unlined.
the Master Cams are in addition to their u-stem line- Metolius still strongly believes in u-stem cams being superior to single stems.the weight, i dont know- i'll reserve comment on that until i get a set to review. the arc'teryx harnesses are due out in the spring, so i would imagine that their release date in Europe is around the same time, possibly summer, depending. when i talk with arc'teryx next, i'll ask.

Article: Cilogear 40L Worksack Editorial Review
because my camera was dying mostly....i had trouble getting the one picture i did post. if you search kimgraves posts, he posted up some excellent reviews with lots of pictures on the Cilogear line....

Article: Start Here Part 2: The Essentials of Gear
regarding shoes: as a beginner, you shouldnt need to take your shoes off between climbs. shoes should be snug enough that there's no dead air, but not so snug as to be painful enough that you need to take them off. as you progress, you can make more personal choices about your shoe style. personally, i never take my shoes off once i put them on until i'm done climbing for the day- but then, i will not wear a painful shoe under any circumstances.

Article: Start Here Part 2: The Essentials of Gear
Nice article. Two comments:

1) Shoes- generally speaking, velcro shoes are more performance oriented, and therefore not beginner shoes. So, chances are, your first shoes will be lace-ups.

2) When you test a harness, you should clip into the testing rope and the harness should keep you in a sitting position when you're hanging. if you fall backward, the harness does not fit properly. The folks that have testing rigs should know this.


Article: Osprey Talon 33 Editorial Review
The full disclosure note is so that the readers know whether the product was paid for or had to be returned- it is so that our readers know if we were compensated for a review or not.

A Special Guest Reviewer is just that, a special guest- there may be a variety of reasons for this- in this case it was a matter of timing of product receipt and staff available for review.

Article: Osprey Talon 33 Editorial Review
As noted in earlier threads, all reviewers (including myself) work on a strictly volunteer basis, and are, when possible, rewarded for their efforts with the gear that they review.

Article: Another Ed and Zorba Epic Adventure
damn, now thats a big day out!

Article: Outdoor Retailer Winter Market '08 - Day 1
i heard about that at the end of the day today (thursday)- i'll see if i can find out anything about it......
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