Forums: Community: The Ladies' Room: Re: [lena_chita] Woman Small Man Big?: Edit Log




avk


Jun 1, 2007, 10:10 PM

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Registered: Oct 28, 2003
Posts: 34

Re: [lena_chita] Woman Small Man Big?
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lena_chita wrote:
You have to plan on what happens if the climber falls-- e.i. be aware of whether you will be dragged off your feet b/c you are stanidng on the incline and facing down the slope (bad idea), whether you will be slammed into the rock, tree, etc.-- Ideally you should be standing right underneath the first bolt and close to the rock face, not 10 feet away... You need to be very aware of ledges and other things the climber could hit b/c of the few extra feet he is going to fall b/c the belayer gets yanked up. And sometimes you just have to know when to say: Nope, sorry, I'm not comfortable belaying you on this particular climb, find someone closer to your weight, b/c if you fall from the third bolt, and I get yanked up, you are on the ground.

Good note!

Don't forget also, if you fall from the first 2 protections and she's not anchored, you guys may colide in the air and posibility of you kicking her face or landing on her head. Place conservative amount of gear (if trad) so your falls won't be too big.

I prefer to be anchored when my partner is in his limit, the crux is low, posibility of taking bigger falls, and/or 60 lbs or larger difference. I also prefer not to belay somebody who run out pros.

Nothing is black and white so be aware of each conditon and adjust accordingly.


(This post was edited by avk on Jun 1, 2007, 10:12 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by avk () on Jun 1, 2007, 10:12 PM


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