Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [microbarn] Gear Tuggers know nothing???: Edit Log


Oct 27, 2007, 10:21 PM

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Re: [microbarn] Gear Tuggers know nothing???
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If this thread is about aid climbing then it should be moved; if it's about non-aid trad climbing then that's a very different story.

In most situations I go passive first, cams second. I rarely ever 'set' passive gear, but rather consider working with the geometry a major part of the craft. And I rope-solo about 50% of my multipitch climbing which means I second my own pitches or 'eat my own dogfood' as it were. Decades of seconding myself while trying to move fast has trained me to only rarely set pro. If I have doubts about a piece, I'm generally more likely to whip in an opposition piece than yank on it.

When I run across someone who hard 'sets' every piece and who cleans passive pro by simply yanking on it (especially up), I think the person simply isn't really "getting it". Deft work placing and cleaning pro really requires becoming a quick study of the fine details of a placement. Finesse and subtlety, rather than force or finageling, are what you should be aiming for in my opinion.

Appropriate slinging is also of paramount importance in trad climbing. Good placement and slinging skills work synergistically to insure good placements stay that way and that the system runs as smooth as possible.

As far as ball nuts go, using them is a real art form which plays out with incredibly close inspection almost down to the millimeter of every placement. I spent last Wednesday whipping on a #3 trying to turn a roof with a great deal of choss above it. I took about 5 dives onto it before finding something solid to move up on. When I went to clean it, it came right out as they generally always do if you put the effort in upfront to really study the placement of them.

For more commentary on ball nuts see:

Ballnutz / Careful consideration when putting your balls on the line…

(This post was edited by healyje on Oct 27, 2007, 10:30 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Oct 27, 2007, 10:25 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Oct 27, 2007, 10:28 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Oct 27, 2007, 10:29 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Oct 27, 2007, 10:30 PM

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