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Re: [cracklover] Gear Tuggers know nothing???:
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highangle
Oct 31, 2007, 6:38 PM
Views: 3171
Registered: Jun 16, 2004
Posts: 151
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In reply to: That just doesn't happen. You display a fundamental lack of understanding here that may be at the root of your larger misunderstanding. As the force in the direction of the stem increases, the cam becomes more, not less likely to pull out. That's what makes a weak pull so useless in determining if the cam will hold a fall. Yep, it does happen - the geometry of a cam is such that the greater the force on the stem, the greater the outward force of the cams (when place correctly). While I have not seen it personally, there are several instances where a cam placed in sandstone has held a fall, but then failed when an individual continued to hang from the cam. The forces the instant the climber hit the piece were sufficient to create outward force on the lobes, creating a greater coefficient of friction between the lobes and the rock than the pull force on the stem. However, once the force on the piece decreased, the cams no longer had sufficient outward force on the crack and the cams ripped. So, it depends - in good solid rock, with a good placement, a cam should -by design - be harder to pull out the greater the force exerted on the stem. Edited to add: I am a tugger, sometimes. Tug on passive, wiggle active. Tugging does not really tell me what will hold a fall, but what won't. Early on, it was amazing what I placed but did not hold with a tug. Now, tugging is used only to set a piece slightly so it doesn't walk, or if I can't fully see the placement to make sure there isn't anything grossly wrong with the placement.
(This post was edited by highangle on Oct 31, 2007, 6:43 PM)
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Post edited by highangle
() on Oct 31, 2007, 6:43 PM
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