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Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [ptpp] Continuous Loop Aid solo:
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lambone
Nov 1, 2007, 5:09 PM
Views: 12390
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
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ptpp wrote: Understand the mistake Matt made putting a clove hitch in the middle of his pitch, and why he could have died doing it if he had fallen close to it [HINT: potential Factor 2 mid-pitch] Cheers, Pete Let me elaborate on that since I don't think I posted it in this thread, it's in a few other places though. Here's what I did wrong. Soloing Zodiac on the Nipple pitch. I led across just fine and got to the Nipple where there use to be bolt. Thinking that I didn't want the lead line to rub on the edge as it turned the corner above, I tied off (re-belayed) the lead line to the bolt with a clove hitch. I made one move above the bolt on to a fixed piece, then popped an offset alien on the next move. As Pete said, luckily the fixed piece held or I would have factor twoed onto that bolt. Since I only had about 15ft of rope out after the bolt, the catch was quite hard and jarring. I saw stars a little, but was ultimately fine. A few years later as I described my fuck up on Supertopo, Werener told me people have decked off El Cap doing what I did because the clove broke when it smashed into the rock. So that's that...
(This post was edited by lambone on Nov 1, 2007, 5:10 PM)
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Post edited by lambone
() on Nov 1, 2007, 5:10 PM
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