Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [billcoe_] Link Cam Report: Edit Log




healyje


Jan 4, 2008, 6:28 PM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204

Re: [billcoe_] Link Cam Report
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maldaly wrote:
...just like the OP cam lesson is to be sure that if they can rotate that they won't rotate into a fixed position or a position of weakness.

Mal, I would agree IF they are going to be allowed to rotate - which I think is explicitly a bad idea - nothing should obstruct the complete rotation. The other issue is how textured the surfaces are the cam is rotating against - there's a big difference between a crack in the Creek and one in JT or Vedauwoo.

So, I just got back from buying a Link Cam for Bill and I to bust up. And, Mal, true, you can break things fairly easily with lateral loads and these linkages may be that sort of deal (I think so). The difference here is all biners operate basically the same - cams, however - thanks to guys like you - now display more diversity of design. My point isn't that the Link Cams are in any way bad, but rather you have a responsibility to take the delivered product design constraints into consideration when you pull one off your rack.

My view of the problem with many of the attitudes expressed in this thread is they are out of touch with reality, but in opposite ways. One camp basically says, "if I can buy it, and it has springs and a trigger, then gosh darn it, it better perform exacly like any other cam - and I'm going to obliviously use it that way". The opposite camp says, "oh my god, one broke! Recall them all, it's not a safe. The engineering and design is deficient!". I'm saying both views are misinformed and extreme, regardless of how many folks here hold them. My main point is this is an innovative cam both in design and materials - and - the delivered product has obvious limitations that, if you aren't prepared to acknowledge and work within the constraints imposed by those limitations, then you shouldn't buy or use them.

With all that prelude, here's the victim. And to be clear, I'm not after engineering results from near-perfect test jigs. I simply want to see, and feel, just how easy it is is to break these cams lobes and linkages. Maybe Bill and Andrew will devote one to more formal or on-the-rock testing, but that's not my objective for this one. We'll video the tests and post up the results when we're done - so standby.

[ Note: All that said, upfront and regardless of any results, I want to state explicitly and categorically that I personally have no qualms whatsoever using, or falling on, an appropriately slung Link Cam in a clean placement. ]




(This post was edited by healyje on Jan 5, 2008, 1:31 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 5, 2008, 1:31 AM


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