Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [healyje] Link Cam Report: Edit Log




mheyman


Jan 5, 2008, 11:41 AM

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Registered: Jul 25, 2002
Posts: 607

Re: [healyje] Link Cam Report
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I have seen the Kodas link before. The ďpaperĒ isnít long and the math not ďtooĒ difficult, but previously I looked only at the first pages and blew it off only as detail in cam angle design.

I find the last two pages pretty scary. I donít think it is intuitive, and I donít think many people are aware of it! If I understand this properly then I am surprised we donít see more cam failures due to this placement geometry, and I understand why RG so strongly prefers passive pro. Is my understanding that flaring cam placements are too be strongly avoided, not because a piece may pull, but because it can easily generate extremely high forces that can destroy the unit.

This failure mode is common to all cams, and it does not seem that those faulting the LC cam at this time understand this. I havenít seen OP blame it solely, so kudos to them for being conservative in testing other possibilities too.


(This post was edited by mheyman on Jan 5, 2008, 3:11 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by mheyman () on Jan 5, 2008, 3:09 PM
Post edited by mheyman () on Jan 5, 2008, 3:11 PM


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