Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [philbox] Link Cam Report: Edit Log

Partner rgold

Jan 6, 2008, 8:17 PM

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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1801

Re: [philbox] Link Cam Report
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philbox wrote:
One question though, how would negative flare affect the equations. In other words a flare at a lesser angle than parrallel.

A quick check of the geometry shows that the same equation gives results for negative flare values. As Vaino set it up, the half flare angle b for the left crack wall is a clockwise rotation from the 6 o'clock position. A negative flare angle for the left crack wall has half flare angle b a counterclockwise rotation from 6 o'clock.

Negative flare angles correspond to crack walls that we would say constricted as you move down, rather than flaring outward (negative flares often call for nuts). The axle loads for negative flares decrease from 2T, but not very fast. As the flare angle approaches -180 degrees (crack walls become a horizontal surface) the axle load approaches T. (Achieving these values assumes the cams could be sufficiently retracted).

When I get it uploaded, a basic graph that extends Mark's graph will appear below. Think of the negative angles on the flare axis as measuring the angle of constriction of the walls.

(This post was edited by rgold on Jan 6, 2008, 8:31 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rgold () on Jan 6, 2008, 8:31 PM: Graph added

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