Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [blondgecko] Link Cam Report: Edit Log




microbarn


Jan 22, 2008, 7:29 AM

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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920

Re: [blondgecko] Link Cam Report
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blondgecko wrote:
curt wrote:
dominic7 wrote:

The basic cam's lobes' contact points don't move (relatively) very far:

[image]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff130/dominic678/cam.jpg[/image]

The LC (three sets of lobes shown independently) has its smaller (extended) lobes traveling much further relatively, and in a direction more perpendicular to the plane of the lobe. I can see how if you have this stuffed into a flaring pocket you could really generate some weird torques.

[image]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff130/dominic678/lc.jpg[/image]

Sorry that the scales are different in the pictures and the LC doesn't look like a real LC.

That's interesting--and could potentially shed some light into the particular failure mechanism for this cam. Does anyone know if this is how the link cams work? I had always thought that only one set of the retractable cams were in contact with the rock for any given placement--as opposed to all three.

Curt

I think the basics of the diagram are correct, but it's back to front at present. In most cases, it'll be the front (ie. smallest) lobes that will remain relatively stationary (since they're the ones actually camming against the rock), and the large ones (loose, when the small cams are engaged) making the biggest movement.

... Actually, just point the stems in the diagram in the opposite direction. This would be much closer to how the link cams work (smallest at the axle, largest extended along the stem).
Agreed, the contact of the loose cams is incidental, and it would probably be caused mostly by irregularities in the surface.

Good read all. I usually avoid the "injuries and accidents" forum, but this thread was worth reading over the last couple of days.


(This post was edited by microbarn on Jan 22, 2008, 7:30 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by microbarn () on Jan 22, 2008, 7:30 AM


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