Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [shockabuku] Escape The Belay Sessions: Backup Belay: Edit Log


Mar 20, 2008, 3:34 PM

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Re: [shockabuku] Escape The Belay Sessions: Backup Belay
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shockabuku wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
How could you escape a belay if your belayer gets hit by a rock and locks the rope on his GG while you were leading a pitch with several protection in place and now you are hanging on your last protection, 80 feet up under some nasty roof?

I'm sure you'll tell me a better answer, but I guess off the top of my head I'll use my Ti bloc and a prussik made out of my nut tool leash to ascend up to my last piece, tie an eight on a bight in the slack I just created, clip it into my belay loop so that I'm now clipped in as close to the pro as possible, regain my last position on the roof, pull the gear and fall. Then do it all over again until I've downclimbed to my belayer.

Don't fall with a biner as your attachment, I'd tie a bowline with a bight with the slack.

But, even better, if you have gear, supplement that piece to make an anchor and descend the rope with prussiks.

(This post was edited by winkwinklambonini on Mar 20, 2008, 3:39 PM)

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Post edited by winkwinklambonini () on Mar 20, 2008, 3:39 PM

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