Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [shockabuku] Escape The Belay Sessions: Backup Belay: Edit Log


Mar 20, 2008, 4:54 PM

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Re: [shockabuku] Escape The Belay Sessions: Backup Belay
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shockabuku wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
How could you escape a belay if your belayer gets hit by a rock and locks the rope on his GG while you were leading a pitch with several protection in place and now you are hanging on your last protection, 80 feet up under some nasty roof?

I'm sure you'll tell me a better answer, but I guess off the top of my head I'll use my Ti bloc and a prussik made out of my nut tool leash to ascend up to my last piece, tie an eight on a bight in the slack I just created, clip it into my belay loop so that I'm now clipped in as close to the pro as possible, regain my last position on the roof, pull the gear and fall. http://Then do it all over again until I've downclimbed to my belayer.

Your system will work but I do not like the idea of taking stuff out if you do not need it plus you could shock your system

Another option

Climb up to the last pro then beef if up if possible. Use your shoe laces for the prussic, tie a fig 8 of the last pro , get yourself out of the fig 8 run your rap gear (assuming you got few feet of slack). Rap down to the next pro, by pass it but leave it there with rope running thru it. Continue till you reach belayer.

If for any reason the top piece comes off, it will fall in to the lower piece but you are still attached to the system.

(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Mar 20, 2008, 4:55 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Mar 20, 2008, 4:55 PM

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