Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [majid_sabet] Escape The Belay Sessions: Backup Belay: Edit Log


Mar 21, 2008, 3:24 PM

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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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Re: [majid_sabet] Escape The Belay Sessions: Backup Belay
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majid_sabet wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
How could you escape a belay if your belayer gets hit by a rock and locks the rope on his GG while you were leading a pitch with several protection in place and now you are hanging on your last protection, 80 feet up under some nasty roof?

I'm sure you'll tell me a better answer, but I guess off the top of my head I'll use my Ti bloc and a prussik made out of my nut tool leash to ascend up to my last piece, tie an eight on a bight in the slack I just created, clip it into my belay loop so that I'm now clipped in as close to the pro as possible, regain my last position on the roof, pull the gear and fall. http://Then do it all over again until I've downclimbed to my belayer.

Your system will work but I do not like the idea of taking stuff out if you do not need it plus you could shock your system

Another option

Climb up to the last pro then beef if up if possible. Use your shoe laces for the prussic, tie a fig 8 of the last pro , get yourself out of the fig 8 run your rap gear (assuming you got few feet of slack). Rap down to the next pro, by pass it but leave it there with rope running thru it. Continue till you reach belayer.

If for any reason the top piece comes off, it will fall in to the lower piece but you are still attached to the system.

This is an excellent question as this is a very likely situation in certain rock types. However, Majid, your answer is misleading. I'm assuming you use the prussik to simply back up yourself and prevent falls.
Secondly, why tie and 8-on-a-bight, simply to untie it 2 minutes later? Most of the time, I would use the simplest solution possible to prevent unnecessary confusion. Also, how are you rappelling off a tensioned line? Clarify please.
I would climb to the pro under the roof, beef it up to real anchor status, and then tie 2 prussiks. (decision point: do you have 2 ropes or 1? Do you have less than half of the rope out or more than half?) If I had 2 ropes, and more than half of the rope out, then I would be forced to leave 1 behind Unimpressed. Tie this rope to the anchor using an 8-on-a-bight, and this rope will be descended using the 2 prussiks. The other rope could simply be dropped to the belayer or just be unclipped from every piece of pro as you go. If you are lucky enough to have less than half the rope out, then you could simply lower yourself on the same prussiks, but let the rope run through the anchor. Then you'd be able to pull the rope. This is one reason I use twin ropes.

Then comes a complicated rescue.... cow tail anyone? Also, I usually climb with partners who have helmets, it's kinda a rule on multi pitch climbs.

(This post was edited by irregularpanda on Mar 21, 2008, 3:26 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by irregularpanda () on Mar 21, 2008, 3:26 PM

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