Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Indoor Gyms: Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!!: Edit Log


May 4, 2008, 12:39 PM

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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
Posts: 807

Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!!
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angry wrote:
Ok, maybe the title is a little over the top but I'm going to go on a long tirade right now (less than a rant but not a question either).

I think pulling plastic is bar none, the HARDEST discipline to master in rock climbing. I give major props to those so called "gym rats" those little bastards are some of the fittest climbers on earth.

I'm quite serious (all my trolls have homosexual inuendos). I climb about 4-5 days a week weather permitting. This ranges from big multipitch routes, to fixing an entire sport crag and assaulting it with my mini-trax, to 9 pitch days in Indian Creek, to crack bouldering, campus training, slab climbing, ice, mixed, and even sport. Name the style and I'm pretty well versed.

By a long shot I'm not the best climber out there but I can hold my own. Except at the gym. I am usually too tired to pull hard after 2 routes. My personal best is three at my limit. On my absolute best days I have climbed about 2 letter grades below my best sends outside, and that is a very rare day. It takes about 1 hour to completely drain me and I will fall on routes with ratings I wouldn't think twice about free-soloing.

The holds stick out, they're marked, but god-damn gym climbing is hard.

I declare, at the onset of this post, that gym climbing is the most advanced form of climbing. I'm not talking about coolest location, beautiful routes, moves, or a drum circle at the camp fire. I'm talking about the most in-your-face fully hard place you can climb.

The motherfucking gym. Plastic has my utmost respect.

I absolutely hate posts like this. Just where is the tongue-in-cheek factor situated in this. I get out like 6-8 times a year times for about 4 years. That's not a lot of outdoors. My hardest climb to date is a 5.10 which is what I consider a no-brainer in the gym. But move for move, grade for grade I really suspect indoor s is harder. I wanna believe! I should be climbing harder outdoors...

But... how do I know? the uncertainly is killing me. If I show up a a new crag and try and take on a 10c, am I just wasting gear? All those bail biners I will have to leave behind.... aaaargh who made up this silly-ass system any way!!!Smile

The only solution I see is to move to Squamish or Yosemite or Vegas or somewhere and climb ever day... I wish...

(This post was edited by macblaze on May 4, 2008, 12:42 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by macblaze () on May 4, 2008, 12:42 PM

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