|
Forums:
Climbing Information:
Trip Reports:
Re: [clausti] Gunks High E screaming girl/Cut Rope:
Edit Log
|
|
j_ung
May 27, 2008, 11:24 PM
Views: 50528
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
clausti wrote: and by "cowtailed" does that refer to when you belay two seconds at the same time on two ropes through a dual-slot belay device, or does that mean one person tied in on a bite and the second on the end of the rope? Cowtailed means the latter, C, and typically the second and third climber are separated by only ten or fifteen feet of rope. The 3rd-pitch High-E headwall overhangs the void as much as it does the ledge and there's substantial height between the ledge and the roof, which you have to sort of squirm past to gain the headwall. Here's what I'm picturing: one of the two seconds falls and pulls the other off with him or her. The second is still within reach of the wall, but he or she can't climb on because the third is dangling underneath and unable to reach anything. Cowtailing can be a great tool to have in your repertoire, especially if you climb a lot in parties of three. I prefer it over two-slot autoblocking for its simplicity. BUT, it also has some rather important contraindications, as the party in question may have found out. I never use it except on terrain that's less than vertical and that's ridiculously easy for all concerned.
(This post was edited by j_ung on May 27, 2008, 11:25 PM)
|
|
Edit Log:
|
Post edited by j_ung
() on May 27, 2008, 11:25 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|