Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [michaellane] Link Cam Report: Edit Log




healyje


Jun 10, 2008, 2:13 PM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4199

Re: [michaellane] Link Cam Report
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michaellane wrote:
Our initial assessment regarding why the cam broke was supported in this recent testing ... because the cam was bottomed against the back of the feature, it wasn't able to shift into direction of pull and, due to the extra length of the unfurled links, leverage on those hinges caused its failure.

Michael, thanks for the report. This is exactly what I was positing all along - any situation which will lead to lateral loads on the cam lobe linkages is to be avoided at all cost. And while I may not have been able to break a linkage with my bare hands and a pair of pliers in the [informal] testing Bill and I did, the fact that baja broke a second one with a tug while checking out the Josh placement for himself tells you the threshold is at a level where you do actually need to engage your brain when using them.

As you stated, anytime a cam - any cam - is slammed into place without study, you are simply gambling. And anyone who thinks there is some way cams can, or should be, designed or built to eliminate the requirement for rapid and complete brain engagement during placements is kidding themselves.

My perspect on Link Cams remains the same - it's an innovative cam design which offers unique benefits, but one which requires you to think carefully about how you are placing it, how it will be loaded, and how it needs to be slung, if necessary, to prevent it from shifting when you climb past it.


(This post was edited by healyje on Jun 10, 2008, 2:18 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jun 10, 2008, 2:18 PM


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