Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [stymingersfink] An Anchor to Beat On: Edit Log




the_climber


Jul 22, 2008, 3:59 PM

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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Re: [stymingersfink] An Anchor to Beat On
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stymingersfink wrote:
sky7high wrote:
I'm worried bout the angles of the opposed nuts, seems like there's some force multiplication there.
I also don't like the cordelette, but let's not open that can of worms.

Perhaps you can find an horizontal nut/tricam/hex/cam placement that works both up and down.
ShockedI'd be worried about the angles there too e-kop. That location looks like a prime candidate for a few pitons though, if it's going to be a regular-type thing.Smile

Carries t3e st33lz and hammer home t3e solidz belayz!

.Really though the pic is firewalled and I won't be able to see it till later.
If it's limestone file the long KB's down to more of a point (ie. less chissle like) and they'll both start and set easier, not to mention clean easier. If it's granite that blunt chissle end seem to work/set better
.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Jul 22, 2008, 4:01 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by the_climber () on Jul 22, 2008, 4:01 PM


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