Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [hafilax] tension: Edit Log




USnavy


Oct 5, 2008, 5:33 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2658

Re: [hafilax] tension
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hafilax wrote:
When toproping and the climber falls and you get lifted off the ground you are both hanging from the rope.

When belaying off the anchor only one person is hanging from the rope.

You do the math.

Thatís poor logic. In fact a fall straight onto an anchor produces more force on the anchor then when the rope runs through the anchor to the belayer. When you fall the belayer is lifted off the ground which increases the fall distance and decreases the peak load on the quickdraw / cam / anchor.

Belaying straight off the anchor for a second will produce more force on the anchor then doing a redirectional into your harness.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Oct 5, 2008, 5:35 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 5, 2008, 5:34 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 5, 2008, 5:35 AM


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