Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [knudenoggin] Has the "Edwards bowline" ever been tested?: Edit Log


Oct 16, 2008, 11:34 PM

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Registered: Dec 14, 2007
Posts: 8

Re: [knudenoggin] Has the "Edwards bowline" ever been tested?
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knudenoggin wrote:
This knot is gratuitously complex. You can have the same results of security,
strength, and ease of untying with other bowline variants.
Cf. Esp. the simple wrap and 2nd
tucking of the end shown as the "Prohaska Bowline" (but actually presented
well before Heinz did, by Wright & Magowan in 1928) will give good results.
Thanks for this link, I think I've never seen these variations before. The Edwards takes about as much time to tie as a double figure eight but due to its complexity none of my partners can inspect it. My main problem with many bowlines has been the need for an additional stopper knot. It gives me the feeling the primary knot is not cutting it since it needs to be backed up and secondly it takes a lot of time (and rope) to tie and untie several knots when just one could do the job. I will definitely give your suggestion a try.

knudenoggin wrote:
As for testing, what sort of test would you like?
It would be nice to know if any wild twist on the rope next to one's harness is good to go or should a little bit more attention be paid towards the knots used? I've understood that the rope does not break during falls regardless of the knot used but the horror stories about knots becoming untied on their own make me somewhat concerned about my choices.

I'd also like to know the tendency to roll when loaded across the loop for different bowline variations. I'm understanding it's a situation to be avoided since they are, after all, bowlines.

(This post was edited by vpm on Oct 16, 2008, 11:37 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by vpm () on Oct 16, 2008, 11:37 PM

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