Forums: Community: The Ladies' Room: Re: [shorty] I took my first gear fall: Edit Log


Jan 2, 2009, 3:00 AM

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Registered: Feb 18, 2008
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Re: [shorty] I took my first gear fall
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shorty wrote:

One way to become even more comfortable with your gear placements is to learn how to aid climb (assuming you haven't done so already). My first experience of standing on my own placements is as vivid today as it was so many moons ago. Again, assuming you haven't already aided a pitch or two, I'll through out some suggestions:

Find someone who knows how to aid and is willing to teach you. Then bribe that person with vast injections of No-Doze during the session and a steak dinner afterwards. And have them use a gri-gri (belaying aid makes watching rust form on garden tools seem interesting).

Find a short, overhanging crack route that sucks up gear like a Hoover. Then throw every piece know to mankind into the crack every 18 inches and stand on them. Rock back and forth, bounce, then jump to see if you can pop the pieces. Oh yeah, wear impact resistant eye glasses when you do this -- I logged a little air time and took a few stoppers in the face the first time.

You may find that your preference for certain types of gear changes, and you will likely develop more confidence in running it out over good gear when necessary.

Chris, I really need to get some more aid practicing in. So we should totally head over to Index together one of these days and do some aid climbing together! I'd be happy to teach you if you provide the gri-gri! With our combined racks (and maybe an extra set of nuts), we should be able to get up a whole climb! What do you say?

(This post was edited by caliclimbergrl on Jan 2, 2009, 3:02 AM)

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Post edited by caliclimbergrl () on Jan 2, 2009, 3:02 AM

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