Forums: Climbing Information: Access Issues & Closures: Re: [iching] Access, Stewardship, Permission, and Regulations for Climbers.: Edit Log


Jan 24, 2009, 5:51 AM

Views: 9881

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: [iching] Access, Stewardship, Permission, and Regulations for Climbers.
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

CounterPoint: The title says it all. Considering how mainstream climbing has become the OP are words to live by.

Ironically my boss, of all people, holds the following statement to close to heart...

"Sometimes its better to ask for forgiveness than permission."

Its not so much climbing on public or private land sans permission is the biggest deal in the world. Its not.

No, a climber or a small two girl team could go in and send a crag or a cliff, without bothering to tell anyone or ask for anything, and no one else would likely be the wiser.

Its when they come back - then it starts to get sticky. And they keep coming back. They tell their friends and their friends start coming back too.

Suddenly the place is spoken about on the internet. Some dude feels it appropriate to open up a 'free' online guide for the place.

And virtually overnight, access is an issue.

It is a self-indulging and self-fulfilling prophecy - permission, rules and regulations for climbers. Again, that mainstream thing.

The problem continues to persist and likely will - at a crossroads of purpose.

The explorers are out there, I assure you. Mostly they are quiet and under the radar and will stay that way. Chances are good that you won't be learning about what they find - anywhere. Chances are good they are not going to tell you about these places at all.

Because if they do? Access WILL BE an issue.

Setting aside a certain petulance (I want MORE CLIMBS WAH!!!111) this is exactly as it should be.

Its a self-fulfilling prophecy - these online guides, these online rules, these groups, these clubs and organizations. All part of mainstreaming a sport that was once the province of the Marginals.

As legions of new climbers march out of the gyms, properly introcinated in Rule Following, from the very inception of their careers (where you have to PAY... to follow the rules, or they clip your wings and kick you out) - following the Line will become easier and easier. So will paying for access, btw...

It used to be? Climbing was all about breaking the rules. First, just to take it up you had to spite family and friends, and seek out dirty hippies who knew how to score (gear).

You had to sneak out climbing because if they knew what you were up to permisson would have been DENIED.

Tis better to ask for forgivenness....

if I sound like I have mixed feeling about all these rules and permissions and special interest groups, I'm sorry. I don't have mixed feelings at all - I pretty much don't like them.


That's one man's opinion. If your first thought of climbing is 'what will the group think' we aren't even in the same solar system, motivation wise.

But for the mainstream, (and I go mainstream PLENTY, btw)... the OP is words to live by. Just don't try to apply mainstream rules to marginals and their marginal activities. They aren't going to play.



(This post was edited by dingus on Jan 24, 2009, 5:56 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by dingus () on Jan 24, 2009, 5:56 AM

Search for (options)

Log In:

Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?