Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [qwert] Holding power of ice screws: Edit Log




chossmonkey


Jan 27, 2009, 7:01 AM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [qwert] Holding power of ice screws
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qwert wrote:

Also they had a look into the angle of the screw, where they found that srews placed in a hanging orientation (up to 30) generally hold more then screws pointing up.

By up do you mean the hanger up?

All the other tests I have seen say that in good ice you want to put the screws in at an upward angle so the threads are loaded more than the shaft since ice and screws both seem to have more tensile strength than shear strength.


Edited to ad:

Never mind I think I found what you meant a post or two down and it did mean hanger up and tip down.


Thanks for the summary.


(This post was edited by chossmonkey on Jan 27, 2009, 7:10 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by chossmonkey () on Jan 27, 2009, 7:06 AM
Post edited by chossmonkey () on Jan 27, 2009, 7:10 AM


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