Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Re: [notapplicable] Route closures at Franklin: Edit Log




DrGoBig


Mar 12, 2009, 8:31 PM

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Registered: May 5, 2008
Posts: 4

Re: [notapplicable] Route closures at Franklin
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I disagree with Mike's actions, but I think the goal here was to get our attention. I know that I spread the word, so I guess he succeeded.

Heres an interesting, quick analysis of the routes altered:

1) Aloha aka Bircham's Other- hangers removed- can be led on gear... with runout

Mike was part of a joint FA/bolting

2) Wintermute- top anchors and 1st bolt hanger removed

Mike was part of a joint FA/bolting

3) No Stopping the Burn (R and L Variations)- Chopped

Mike was part of a joint FA/bolting

4) Castaways- top anchors removed

This is a pretty well bolted 5.8 that everyone leads. Groups kinda set up base camp here and it bugs him because of impact... on rockclimbing.com:

Currently closed to climbing, Castaways is the standard group TR and first lead at Franklin. The incredible impact is obvious when you understand that the first bolt was once one move off the ground, and that the area across the trail was too thick with mountain laurel to walk through. Climb the pocketed face past 4 bolts to reach ring anchors.

5) First Aid- top anchors removed

The anchor was simply webbing on a tree with rings

6) Eddie's Arete- top anchors removed- OLD ANCHOR (TREE) IS DEAD!!

I guess the anchor had to be removed anyway if the tree was dead.

7) Captain Hook- top anchor removed

bolted by his friend Mike Fisher, Im guessing he had permission from FA to take it down

8) Trident- top anchors removed- old face bolts to be replaced this summer

I guess he plans to reopen this if he plans to rebolt the face bolts

9) Anchors Away- top anchors removed

he was part of a joint FA

10) Super Amazing Sea Monkeys- top anchors and top hanger removed

dont understand the logic on this one

11) Keelhauled- no anchor, all face bolt hangers removed- will be rebolted 6/09

plans to rebolt it I guess

12) Belly of the Whale- chopped

he did FA

13) Skid Marks- top anchors removed

was a trad climb with anchors, dont understand the logic on this one

So 5 of the 13 routes he has FA on.

1 route was bolted by Mike Fisher, and maybe Mike Gray got the okay from him. Just guessing though...

1 route had a bum anchor on a bad tree that was taken down.

2 routes will be replaced with new gear this Summer.

I believe that Mike views Castaways as a source of trail erosion, large groups setting base camp up, etc. These are some of the things that bothered him most, so I see his reasoning.

Removing the anchors to First Aid consists of removing webbing from a tree.

2 of the routes seemed random.

Besides those two routes, it seems as if there is some method to the closures. It seems like he tried to make the biggest impact to make a statement while mostly closing his own routes, a couple routes that he saw groups camping out in front of (Castaways/First Aid), and a few routes that need upgrades. Finally, there were a couple routes that seemed random.

Let me reiterate that I'm not a fan of the closures, but for me, a tangential ethical question is raised. Mike has stated that he has permission from the landlord to chop all the routes at Franklin (which I hope he does not do.) For almost half of the routes he altered he was part of the FA/bolting. At other crags, without similar background issues, is it normally considered ethical for the FAist to do anything he pleases with the route/bolts after establishing the route?

(This post was edited by DrGoBig on Mar 12, 2009, 8:49 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by DrGoBig () on Mar 12, 2009, 8:48 PM
Post edited by DrGoBig () on Mar 12, 2009, 8:49 PM


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