Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [jt512] Safest belay technique: Edit Log




notapplicable


Mar 17, 2009, 9:22 PM

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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771

Re: [jt512] Safest belay technique
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jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
dingus wrote:
A palm down belay IS locked, most of the time.... THAT'S THE POINT.

And most of the time it's a stupid point...When you belay, if you're locked off by default, you can't be as responsive with the rope to the climbers movements as you can when you have the rope in a neutral position. When starting from a locked off position you can't as effectively (or at all) give a dynamic belay to lengthen a fall or yard in slack to shorten a fall.

Jay


I agree with you on this. My method does not allow for the same degree of swift and subtle rope movement as the P&S.

Thank you. That is an important admission.

Jay

It's a limitation inherent to the system. I consider it to be manageable but clearly it's not for everyone.


edit: my spelling is terrible


(This post was edited by notapplicable on Mar 17, 2009, 9:23 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by notapplicable () on Mar 17, 2009, 9:22 PM
Post edited by notapplicable () on Mar 17, 2009, 9:23 PM


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