vivalargo
Apr 7, 2009, 12:49 AM
Views: 29059
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 1512
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I wonder why the leader (WS) didn't secure the lead rope to the anchor and rap off, instead of having the much lighter (125 lb.) belayer try and lower him to the ground directly off his waist - a pretty much unheard of descent tactic (this basically only happens when someone seconding a pitch cannot follow and the leader must lower him to the deck or the belay below).
Another factor which possibly saved the belayers life (gathered from what the belayer told me) is that when said belayer got to the top, the leader let it be known that he was not especially pleased with the anchor. Using a piece of gear cleaned from the pitch just climbed, the belayer added a third piece to the two piece anchor, and equalized the whole set up as well. Note also that this equalized, three piece anchor was set in a horzontal crack.
I consider it fortunate that such an anchor withheld a 70 airball whipper. In my experience, anchors set in horizontal cracks - in grainly Josh rock, to boot - are much more prone to rip when shock loaded than are anchors that are vertically aligned (set up to withstand downward, rather than outward, forces).
JL
(This post was edited by vivalargo on Apr 7, 2009, 12:50 AM)
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